A country with a noticeable Italian influence, the tradition of sharing a mate, tango, and good wine.


On our way to Córdoba we had a night in Salta in a hostel. The owner gave us with his friendly nature a great start in Argentina. In Córdoba we were first hosted by Felix from couchsurfing who is very knowledgeable about his country and areas for trekking. We had many nice conversations in his home and out with his friends. After we were hosted by Celeste for almost a week. She is such an amazing and sweet girl with a big heart and cute smile. I loved our stay in Córdoba. The city is modern, historical, has many calm areas, a great nightlife, many trees, and organic stores. Every Wednesday all museums are free. I really enjoyed the Museo Emilio Caraffa (15 ARS). The Paseo del Buen Pastor and the Paseo de las Artes are nice areas to walk around.

Buses inside the city are 12.55 ARS per way. I liked the donation-based La Docta walking tour at 5pm. There is another one at 11am. Both take around 3 hours (


When we arrived in Rosario, our couchsurfing host, Franco, welcomed us with a delicious vegan dinner. Together with his boyfriend Federico, they spread a great vibe which made us feel home. One evening they invited us to join them to an event (Ciudades felices) they helped to organize. They work for an NGO that develops citizen participation projects around the country. It was a great and interesting week with them. Rosario is one of the greenest cities in Argentina (e.g. Parque de la Independencia). I loved to walk along the river. People lay on the grass, share mate, and play music. Rosario has a reputation as being a dangerous city. That comes from the surroundings of Rosario where most poor people live. The city centre is safe though. I was positively surprised when I found a commune garden with herbs and vegetables in one of the many parks. A sign of trust. Rosario also has a bike share with tandems (Mi bici, tu bici). You have to register 72 hours ahead for using it. The city also closes one main road for cars every Sunday from 8 am to 12.30 pm so anyone  can use it with their skates and scooters. The centro cultural “La Toma” is worth a visit. We bought peanut butter there (69 ARS).

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires was built to impress. Some parts of the million city are very modern, others very historical, and others contain slums. Tango is part of the identity of Buenos Aires. One of my hosts is a professional tango dancer and took me to a Milonga. The waterfront of La Boca is famous for its brightly coloured houses, many tourists, and is supposedly where tango originated. Every afternoon at around 4 pm (especially on Sundays) couples dance tango for tips in Plaza Dorrego. The trendy Soho Palermo neighbourhood has some nice coffee shops and some of the best nightlife. The Recoleta Cemetery is interesting in that respect that the people are buried in small, well designed mausoleums. Some were in good condition, others seemed ignored. I liked how plants and trees were growing around them.

The El Ateneo bookshop is one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world. Converted from a beautiful theatre it has retained many of its original features. Riding the metro put me in a bad mood. Many people are stressed and spread a very negative vibe. But Buenos Aires does have a lot of things to do and many beautiful parks to recharge energy. My favourite was Centenario Park. A great place to lie in the grass, have a picnic, drink mate, listen to street musicians, or exercise. Some people were selling vegan sandwiches.

Buenos Aires has a bicycle share (free the first hour on weekdays). Accessible either by an app (you need internet, BA EcoBici) or with a card (you need to register and pick it up). There are bike lines but I did not feel so safe. Mainly because of pedestrians and motorcycles that are not aware of this bike line. To use the metro (subte) you need to buy a SUBE card (25 ARS, unlimited number of transfers). With each journey costing 7.50 ARS.

One day, through Hangout on couchsurfing, I met Dano in El Tigre. El Tigre is a great, green, and quiet place along the river north of the city for those who would like to escape the busy city life (12 ARS from Retiro with the SUBE card). Dano’s dad used to work for a boat company in El Tigre so he gifted me a free ticket for a boat ride. We were on the boat for 2.5 hours and talked nonstop about nutrition, motivation, psychology, his ketogenic diet, apple cider vinegar, intermitted fasting, writing, and more. It was very inspiring and the next day we met up again with my boyfriend. It was a great day.


We volunteered in Chascomús in a permaculture eco community. I was responsible to cook each day for 15-20 people. Conscious, organic and vegan food based on cereals, legumes, oilseeds, nuts, and seasonal vegetables. I loved it. My boyfriend helped in the beginning building a house with natural construction techniques. Later he helped me in the kitchen. It was a good experience. I learnt a lot about different dynamics in a community.


Mendoza Province is Argentina’s most important wine region. We went with the bus to Maipú for some wine and olive oil tours (bus Nr. 171-173; 11 ARS; ask a local from where). The bus dropped us off very close to Mr. Hugo’s bike rental where we rented a bicycle for the whole day (100 ARS each). Some tasting and tours are free (e.g. Bodegas López). Others between 60 and 200 ARS for 2-6 glasses of wine. Check the opening times. They are usually between 10 am and 6 pm. I enjoyed the tour and tasting in the Bodega Familia Cecchin most. Their wine is organic. They planted fruit trees to attract the insects so they won’t eat the grapes. In between the grapes they planted rosemary and oregano to fight against the bugs. After the fermentation they use the skin and seeds of the grapes as compost. At Atomo Conviene LAUR TURISMO we tried a lot of different olive oils, balsamic vinegars, and a delicious bean and olive paste (50 ARS).

Our couchsurfing host had a beautiful house with garden. He ususally rents it on Airbnb when he is not there. We are very lucky that we could enjoy there some days.

San Rafael

We visited the Dique Valle Grande. A stunning artificial lake with a hike down to a river. For that we took a bus from the Terminal Nestor Kirchner to Valle Grande (last stop, 57 ARS). There are only three buses per day during low-season. The earliest bus leaves at 7.20 am on weekdays and 8.50 am on weekends. Unfortunately, the public transport in San Rafael is not very good (10 ARS per way). Therefore most people use their car, bicycle or walk.

Another day we visited the donation-based wine tasting tour at Finca y Bodega La Abeja. The first opened winery in San Rafael. If you would like a tour in English it is necessary to write them before. I learnt a lot about the history of San Rafael, that the earlier you stop the fermentation process (through cooling it down) the sweeter is the wine, and that the microorganisms turn the sugar of the grapes into alcohol.


Neuquén is a windy city that has a nice river. Sol, our couchsurfing host, welcomed my boyfriend and I with a super delicious vegan cake. She took us to a contemporary museums night where we met up with another couchsurfer. It was a great night. Sol helped us with getting the bus ticket, showed us her art, and even brought us to the bus terminal the next morning.

San Martín de Los Andes

The moment I got off the bus, I had a big grin on my face. Everything seemed familiar to me. I felt at home. The smell of sturdy wooden houses, the lake, the mountains, the forest, the mild climate, the roses. I was surprised what triggered this supposedly familiar environment in me. A peaceful happiness. I realized how much I miss Switzerland. San Martín de Los Andes has a beautiful scenic outpost (Mirador Bandurrias). The hike is around 30 minutes from the city center and leads through a forest. There are a couple of natural food stores (e.g. Mystica Natural), some nice coffee places (e.g. Cafe Danes) and parks.

Christian, our couchsurfing host, was amazing. He invited us to many places and events with friends. We had many meals, laughs, interesting conversation, and walks in the mountains together (e.g. Cerro Colorado for sunset, five hours there and back).


From San Martín de Los Andes we hitchhiked the Route of the Seven Lakes to Bariloche. Some of the lakes around Villa La Angostura are turkish coloured because of the minerals of the volcanic eruption of Puyehue in 2011. Bariloche is a windy city that is mainly famous for its beautiful surrounding nature.

We stayed there with Martina, a friend of mine from primary school. She has lived in Bariloche for more than ten years. She and her mum received us with open arms in their house with a garden full of beautiful roses. Martina showed us some hidden spots in Bariloche, and introduced us to many of her friends. She also plays many instruments. My boyfriend mentioned wanting to learn the basics of playing guitar and she invited a friend over to teach him. One night she invited us to a relaxing gong-bath. It was my first time and I enjoyed it very much.

We made a day trip to El Bolsón together. A city known to be artisanal. Even the hairdresser is artisanal. We booked a tour in the Earthship Patagonia Hostel (each day at 4 pm, free).

After spending Christmas together we all went to Frutillar in Chile where we rented a cabana for a few days. It was a fun and relaxing time with lots of great conversations. For using the bus in Bariloche you can use the same SUBE card as in Buenos Aires.



Mate is a caffeine-rich infused drink that is fundamental to the culture of Uruguay, Paraguay and Argentina. Over 90% of the population consumes it. It is prepared by filling a container, typically a gourd, up to three-quarters full with dry leaves of the yerba mate, and filling it up with water at a temperature of 70–80 °C usually from a thermos flask. It is served with a long silver straw with a filter at the bottom. Mate is usually shared. It is spending quality time with friends and family. Everyone drinks from the same cup and uses the same straw. You finish the whole cup and give it to the next person. There are unspoken rules. One person acts as the sole server for the group. And if you say “thank you”, you don’t want anymore. The last rule I did not know for a long time and was always wondering why they left me out after my first cup. One guy explained me how to pour and how to rearrange the pile of tea leaves after each serving. The first time I tried Mate I was in Costa Rica. My couchsurfing host was originally from Argentina. It tasted very bitter and I was wondering how it is possible people like it. I had been offered to share a cup many times after and each time I liked it a little bit more and I started to want another sip. Like my experience with coffee. There is no doubt that it has addictive qualities. Later I learnt some people in hotter areas drink mate cold (called tereré), add sugar, dried orange skins, ginger, coconut, or cacao shells. The imagination knows no limits. I really enjoy the mate tradition and I think we can learn a lot from it.

Interesting to know

  • In 1947, Argentina got women’s right to vote. In Switzerland only in 1971 (at federal level). At cantonal level 1958-1990.
  • Since 2010 same-sex marriage is legal in Argentina. In Switzerland a registered partnerships for same-sex couples is legal since 2007. A constitutional amendment to legalize same-sex marriage is currently pending in the Swiss Parliament.
  • In the middle of the 19th century began the Italian immigration and reached its peak in the first two decades of the 20th century. In Argentina live many people from other countries as well (e.g. Germany, Spain). Many native people got killed.
  • Universities are free for everybody. Even foreigners.
  • Going out dancing starts at around 2 am.


Eating in Argentina has its own blog entry: Vegan eating in Argentina. The tap water at most places is safe to drink. Not in Chascomús.


  • Couchsurfing is popular in most bigger cities in Argentina. We found a host in each city besides Salta.
  • Hostels are available for 140-240 ARS per night in a dorm. The south of Argentina is more expensive.
  • Volunteering is a nice option to spend a few weeks at one place.


The transport system in Argentina is organized for South America. There exist no bus maps but on Google maps are most bus connection with times, numbers, and location from where to take the bus. Long-distance buses are very expensive and cost about 60 to 100 ARS per hour, do not stop, but do have a working on-board toilet. Local collectivos inside a city are usually 8 to 15 ARS.

Buses we took:

  • Bus from Salta to Córdoba: 1’197 ARS (12-13h, FlechaBus).
  • Bus from Córdoba to Rosario: 520 ARS (7h, Sierras de Cordoba).
  • Bus from Buenos Aires (Retiro) to Chascomús: 178 ARS (2h, Condor Estrella).
  • Bus from Buenos Aires (Retiro) to Mendoza: 1’050 ARS (17h, Nueva Chevallier).
  • Bus from Neuquén to San Martín de Los Andes: 570 ARS (8h, Albus).

Car sharing: CarpooleAR (app and website). Similar to BlaBlaCar in Europe. It is not very known yet. Therefore it works better in the north of Argentina. We used it from Rosario to Buenos Aires (150 ARS each). It is double as fast than the bus.

We hitchhiked for shorter distances (< 3h).


Like anywhere else it is important to be careful and use plain common sense. Ask which the neighbourhoods you should avoid are. Petty theft and slashing (of bags) is rare.


There is a public and a private healthcare. The public one is free. Also for people from other countries. The private healthcare is around 30 USD per consultation (tests, treatments, and operations cost extra). The quality is one of the best in South America.


Argentina’s weather differs greatly depending on topography and degree of latitude of the region. It is the 8th largest country by area with all four seasons. The south of Argentina is best to visit in summer from December to February. In Winter (June to August) the sun goes down very early during the day and therefore it is much colder than it already is. The north of Argentina is nice to visit from Spring to Autumn (September to May).


Spanish is the official and predominant language. English is taught since elementary school. There are at least 40 spoken languages in Argentina. They include indigenous and immigrant languages (e.g. Italian, Arabic, German).

One notable pronunciation difference found in Argentina is the “sh” sounding y and ll (e.g. yo, ella, llave). In most Spanish speaking countries the letters y and ll are pronounced somewhat like the “y” in yo-yo, however in most parts of Argentina they are pronounced such as the sound the “sh” makes in “shoe”. The Italian immigration influenced Lunfardo, the slang spoken in the Río de la Plata region. In Argentina they use the pronoun vos instead of tú (“you”).


Official currency: Peso (ARS). Since the late 20th century, the Argentine peso has experienced a substantial rate of devaluation, reaching 25% in 2017. At most banks it is only possible to withdraw less than 1000 ARS each time.


No entrance or exit fees. The Visa is for 90 days (free for most countries). If you want to stay longer in Argentina you can either leave the country for a few hours and return with a new 90-day visa (free) or you can extend your visa for a fee.


Vegan eating in Argentina


Argentinian food is heavily meat-based. Asado, the social event of having a barbecue, is very popular in Argentina, Chile, Paraguay, and Uruguay. When we were invited to one we brought eggplants, potatoes, and peppers with us and made a delicious salad or Baba Ganoush out of roasted eggplants. People loved it. Argentinian food also has a huge Italian influence. You can find pasta and pizza almost everywhere. Wine is available from 40 ARS and even delicious. Argentinians eat four times a day. Breakfast, lunch, merienda (snack), and dinner.

Be wary of the tofu. Over 90 percent of soy is genetically modified and needs a lot of water and pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These chemicals end up in the groundwater, air and eventually in the inhabitants. Suspiciously many locals are sick or have died. A business at the expense of the people who live there. In addition, many soils are already leached. This is a kind of cultivation that is not sustainable. Monsanto has a big influence on agriculture in Argentina. It is difficult not to eat genetically modified food.

In the north of South America I was spoilt with a huge variety on fruits and vegetables. In Argentina I felt like back home in Europe. Instead of over 3000 different potatoes to choose from — only two. We took advantage of the vegetable markets and cooked a lot.

Big vegetable and fruit markets are rarer in Argentina. Little stores on the road are more common and do have basic vegetables and fruits. Depends a lot on the season. Supermarkets do have more options. The prices vary a lot depending where you are in Argentina. Food in Buenos Aires, Neuquén, and Bariloche is most expensive. In Salta, Córdoba, and Rosario food is cheapest. Street food is not very common in Argentina. Some examples to have an idea: 1 kg avocados (80-120 ARS), 1 kg tomatoes (28-50 ARS), 1 kg bananas (16-35 ARS), 1 kg eggplants (25-40 ARS), 1 kg carrots (10-24 ARS), 1 kg sweet potatoes (14-20 ARS), 1 kg squash (6-19 ARS), 1 kg peanuts (50-55 ARS), a can of coconut milk (79.50 ARS), 1 kg oats (30-40 ARS).

Most cities we visited had natural stores where we bought nutritional yeast (Levadura de Cerveza, 110 ARS), tahini, nuts, and peanut butter (400 g, 55-85 ARS).

A meal in a vegetarian/vegan restaurant is between 120 and 170 ARS. Córdoba and Buenos Aires do have a lot of vegan options. Smaller cities do have a few. It is important to remember that Argentinians do not eat dinner until late – 10pm is normal and most restaurants are not open before 8 or 9 pm. Some offer a Merienda if you can’t wait.


El Papagayo Restaurant

Wow! What an excellent gastronomy experience we enjoyed. The food was high quality, fresh, surprised in taste, and the service was very attentive. We started with a fresh, fluffy almond soup that had a light taste of lime. Next we enjoyed hummus with terrific homemade whole wheat bread that contained nuts and raisins.

After, we were served tasty mushrooms on a pepper sauce with capers and olives. Dessert was a pear with sweet ice, cardamom, cinnamon, and peppermint. We finished with a strong coffee. A delicate combination of flavours and textures. Truthful art!

Maná Resto (vegetarian with vegan options)

A beautiful restaurant with an excellent atmosphere to spend a few hours in. I felt like I was in a garden.

Lunch is an open buffet with a huge variety of delicious, healthy and fresh food. The presentation is beautiful. Some of the food is even gluten free. We enjoyed the open buffet and had an amazing vegan Cappuccino. Lunch on weekdays is 240 ARS per kg. Dinner and lunch on the weekend is 328 ARS per kg. The takeaway buffet is less.

Uriel restaurant Vegetariano Vegano

We had the menu del dia for 120 ARS where we could choose three different things from the salad bar. They heated up our food with the microwave. There is also a little self-service with chia seeds, oregano, flaxseeds, ginger, curcuma, and different teas. Most, I liked the vegetable pie with vegan cheese.

MA Market (100% vegan)

A restaurant that offers a nice salad bar and an open buffet for 19 ARS per 100g. The variety is great and they offer seeds like sesame, chia, and flaxseeds.

Buenos Aires

Cúrcuma (vegetarian with vegan options)

A beautiful restaurant for a romantic dinner that opens at 8pm (closed on Sunday and Monday). On Saturday they organise live music. The food is very rich in taste, the service cordial, and the portions large. I had a hearty mushroom risotto with homemade coconut milk and tomatoes (170 ARS). I could smell the coconut before every bite and the tomatoes gave the meal a slightly sour, refreshing taste. As a starter I had a salad in between two tasty seed crackers. The kitchen is open, so you can actually see people cooking. Everything is organic, even the wine. So Yummi!

Casa Munay (vegetarian with vegan options)

The restaurant has a beautiful ambience to escape the hustle of the city and invites to stay for a few hours. In the front is a little store with lots of organic products like peanut butter, seeds, cookies, and bread. We had the Munay Thai with rice noodles that came with tofu, onions, peanuts, cilantro, and soy sauce (155 ARS). The Risotto 3 cereals with millet, barley, and quinoa was with coconut milk, vegetable cheese, squash and peppers (140 ARS). Unfortunately we could not taste much of the coconut milk and squash. The taste was a bit stale. However, we really enjoyed the Munay Thai. So I am sure we were just unlucky with our choice of risotto. They also have hummus, Baba Ganush, sushi, falafel, pastas, cappuccino with vegetable milk (60 ARS), and other delicious things on the menu.

Pumpkin Vegan Burgers (100% vegan)

It is more a take-away place than a restaurant since to eat in the place is not very comfortable. The burger was a bit too oily for my taste but it was very delicious. A burger is between 75 and 85 ARS. The combos (burger + French fries + drink) are between 125-135 ARS. The cheese is made out of tofu. And they have vegan brownies too.



Govinda Vegetarian (vegetarian with vegan options)

The upper floor has a beautiful, little inside, herb garden and relaxing music. The restaurant offers lunch and dinner as an open buffet for 22 ARS per 100g. Takeaway is 18 ARS per 100g. They offer many vegan options like empanadas, sushi, deep-fried vegetables, salad, pizza, seitan, and a delicious vegetable crepe with a vegan mayonnaise. Some of the food is spicy. There are microwaves available to heat up the food. Since they try not to waste any food they offer the buffet as takeaway between 3-3:30pm and 11-11:30pm for only 10.60 ARS per 100g. They are also selling nuts, seeds, tofu, seitan, and other specialities.

Volunteering with Workaway in Central and South America


Volunteering is a great way to learn new skills, gain experience, practice a language, help others, learn more about a different culture, get out of your comfort zone, learn more about yourself, connect with similar minded people, and a nice option to spend a few weeks at one place. Sometimes far away from civilization like we did for example in Guatapé and Tumianuma.

The first time I volunteered I was 14 years old. I worked on a farm in the mountains for three weeks. It was hard, physical work and most of the time I worked alone in the field. My hosts were grateful and I felt appreciated. Two years later I volunteered for three years as a cashier in a public charity. I learnt a lot. During the same time, I volunteered on another farm with the organisation Caritas for three weeks. The French family I stayed with was very warm and treated me like a family member. Most rewarding has been working with refugees in my hometown. Most of them are incredibly grateful and I could see the direct effect. It is very important to offer the possibility to learn the local language and make them feel at home. The integration goes much faster. For my one-and-a-half-year trip through Central and South America I used a highly recommended website, I volunteered in Costa Rica, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Argentina. I worked on permaculture farms, helped to build houses out of Guadua, worked in hostels, in a Hare Krishna temple, in ecological communities, painted walls, took pictures, and cooked a lot.

All those places have given me the possibility to observe new lifestyles and have given me many ideas of how to realise my dreams. They give me inspiration and courage that it is possible to live in harmony with nature. I also learnt what I am good at, what I like, and what I do not like.

Even though I grew up with a big garden with vegetables and fruits I had to travel to the end of the world to discover my deep wish to grow my own food. Now I could not imagine not doing it. I am excited to help my mum in her garden until I have my own. Sometimes we need a few thousand kilometres of distance from our everyday lives to open our eyes.

How does volunteering with Workaway work?

Volunteering with Workaway is more a work exchange. A few hours volunteering per day in exchange for food and accommodation. My boyfriend and I volunteered between three and six hours a day. Weekends were usually off. Only at one place we worked every day. But that was in a beautiful mountain lodge where our main task was to make sure the guests are happy, well-informed about the area and feel at home. This included check-in/check-out of guest, serving dinner/snacks, breakfast, serving drinks from the bar, helping with administration on excel, and playing appropriate music. It was a wonderful break from travelling and felt like vacation.

A few of the volunteer options ask for a certain amount of money per day. It is possible to filter them out in the search. You can sign up as a single person (34 USD) or as a couple / two friends (44 USD). It is also possible to connect two accounts together in case you want to apply together. Accounts are valid for one year enabling you to contact any of the hosts. I think it is good to write a host something about your background, why you are interested and why you think you are suitable for this volunteer position. Registering as a host is free of charge. Once you have signed up you will be searchable as a volunteer by the hosts on the site. Hosts often look for specific skills. Fill in your profile with info about yourself and the skills you can offer.

Many projects ask that volunteers stay for at least a month. It takes time to train volunteers how to do the work. To have different volunteers each week or every few days is not ideal for the host. There is no contract to stay for a month so if it is not working out, it is possible to leave whenever you would like. We left a few projects early and explained why and the hosts had no problem with us leaving. Many even told us that we could come for a week and see if it will work out for us and them.

Workaway is not a way for hosts to substitute paid employees with volunteers. Unfortunately, we felt exploited at a few places. For example, when I had to hand-weed six hours on a rainy day with ants eating me bloody, eating mainly carbohydrates, nobody who was grateful, and having to sleep on a musty mattress in a dirty room that was leaking when it rained. Not the kind of volunteer situation I imagined when I signed up. I really enjoy hand-weeding, but only for about two hours. After I like to do something else and change my posture to protect my back. Something I did not think about in the beginning of my trip.

Accommodation and food

We realised very early that many of those projects do not have a lot of money. Accordingly, was the sleeping- and food situation. I only have experience in Central and South America. So, it might be different in North America and Europe. Some mattresses we slept on were very musty, humid, and dirty. Others were super clean and cosy.

If you care for a well- balanced nutrition you might need to take your own food with you if possible or be lucky with your host. Since some people are a bit overwhelmed with our plant-based diet (I agree it can be difficult), we carry our own seeds and nuts with us. At one place we were able to join our host and bought vegetables and fruits. Another place we could make a list of the food we would like to have. Or we could use whatever was in the kitchen. That was great since at most places we did not have a choice in the food that was bought. But there is also a lack of awareness about a balanced nutrition. At one place we got four different kinds of carbohydrates (rice, potatoes, pasta, and oats) for breakfast. Little vitamins, proteins, or healthy fats. I am glad we had enough food most of the time even though it was very monotonous. Another place we were very hungry. All we did in our free time was thinking about food. In both cases we were far from a supermarket. At another place we volunteered there was no money for drinking water. The tap water was very salty and contained chlorine. So, we bought our own water. What upset me about this situation was only the volunteers were offered the water to drink, the rest of the community drank filtered water from their houses.


The feedback system of Workaway is not the best. Not many people are leaving a feedback. Especially a negative one. The other side can see the feedback right away and write / manipulate their feedback accordingly. So, both sides do not write a feedback when something was uncomfortable because of being afraid of getting a negative feedback. Airbnb and Couchsurfing have a better system.

Is it easy to volunteer as a vegan?

I am surprised how easy it was to eat vegan during our volunteer time. Rice, beans, and meat are the basic of most meals in Central and South America. Vegetables seem to be less important. It is possible within the search option on Workaway to search by keywords. We searched for the keywords “vegetarian”, “vegan”, and “avocado”. There are some and the amount is growing each year. Most hosts had no problem to leave out the meat, dairy, and eggs if there was some. We had only one bad experience where the mother of our host cooked for all of us. Our host told her about our diet, but we saw his mother preparing bread and a few soups with animal products. This was frustrating because we asked her what was in the food and she said there was none.

Tips for what to bring with you

Clothes that can get dirty, an open-mind, and the ability to be flexible helps dealing with hosts who are revising their plans. Unforeseen circumstances may mean that a host cancels or postpones a visit. Mosquito spray and long-sleeved clothes can be handy. Volunteer options with great ratings in popular areas are often booked out two to four months ahead. Request for an opportunity you like as soon as possible. This has not always been ideal for us since we like to travel spontaneously but if there was a volunteer option that seemed interesting we made our plans accordingly.

If some of my experiences seem frustrating, it is because sometimes they were. But I learnt and grew so much that I would do it again. What does not kill me makes me stronger. I hope this blog entry will not discourage you. I encourage everyone to try for themselves. I have found interesting projects on Workaway in Europe and even in my tiny hometown. I hope to take advantages of these options within the next couple of years.

If you would like to read more about each place I volunteered, please click on the country you intend to volunteer. Maybe one of them fits to you and I can answer further questions you might have. Costa Rica, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru.

Other websites that connect hosts with volunteers:




I thought two weeks would be enough for Bolivia — I was wrong! I stayed there almost a month and could have stayed much longer. The warm-hearted people I met, the beautiful parks that whispered to lay down, the historical architecture, and the incredible beauty of the lagoons close to Uyuni made it difficult to leave. So four months later I went back to Bolivia for a month. This time together with my boyfriend.

Copacabana (3’841 m)

Copacabana is a very small and peaceful town right next to Lake Titicaca. One of the largest, highest, and deepest lakes in the world. One evening I hiked up the Cerro Calvario where I had an unforgettable view of the bay. The sun sets for hours. Nearby, the Restaurant Bambu offers a peaceful place to hang around in its peaceful garden.

Volunteering at Hostal Joshua

An eco-hostel with compost toilets, a greenhouse, relaxed music, and a place for camping. They have a vegetarian/vegan restaurant with reasonable prices. Breakfast is between 12-22 Bs. and a meal between 22-30 Bs. The food is delicious! Among other things they offer hummus, falafel, arepas, guacamole, lentil burger, whole grain bread, and homemade ketchup. I was very happy to help in the kitchen.

La Paz (3’640 m)

La Paz (seat of government) is an incredibly interesting and vibrant city. There are a number of things to do but it is also nice to simply walk around for hours. Sopocachi and San Miguel are beautiful neighbourhoods and the Witches’ Market a fascinating area.

La Paz lies in a valley surrounded by massive mountains. Due to the hills and underground water they built a cable car (Teleferico) that runs on electricity, part of which is provided through solar power. The impact on the environment is a topic of great importance in Bolivia. Influenced by the indigenous world view that mother earth (Pachamama) is a living being. She is fertile and therefore sacred. She is the source of life that feeds and cares for all living beings in her womb. She is composed of all ecosystems and living beings that forms part of a big family.

Some Bolivians sacrifice Pachamama dried llama fetus when building a house. It is said that for larger buildings, a llama fetus is not sufficient. Therefore, a human was sacrificed. A homeless person that nobody misses. He got so much food and alcohol until he was unconscious. After that he was cemented alive. It is important that Pachamama decides on death and life. It is rumored that this is still practiced.

The cable car network is a fast and reliable public transport system. It is also number one on TripAdvisor. To enjoy it to the fullest we took orange to red to blue line (3 Bs. each line). The blue line is where the open air market is. The biggest in all of Bolivia. Opened on Thursdays and Sundays. We came back through blue to red. Red ends at central station. From there we took a minivan back to the center. Many more lines are planned to be built. Another modern and comfortable public transport is the Pumakatari bus. It has Wi-Fi and it is possible to take your bicycle for free. A collectivo is 2-3.60 Bs. The minivan from the center to the airport starts in front of Banco Union at Parada Minibus Cotranstur (4 Bs.).

I highly recommend to go on one of the donation-based walking tours organized by Red Cap Tours starting daily at 11 am. It made me want to learn more about their history and politics.

Valle de la luna is located a bit outside of the busy city. Reachable by all minivans that go to Mallasa. Ask the driver to drop you off at Valle de la Luna (2.50 Bs.). Entrance is 15 Bs. It has two circuits, one 10 minutes and the other 45 minutes.

My host, Daltry, was a big plus during my stay in La Paz. He was incredible helpful and knowledgeable. Daltry introduced me to Akbar (a delicious tea brand) and was very interested in a whole-food, plant-based diet. On his free day he took us on a three-hour ride to Coroico. It was a great trip 🙂 His dog, Kiara, is one of the cutest dogs I ever met.


Cochabamba (2548 m)

With nicknames such as “Culinary Capital of Bolivia” and “The Garden City” — I knew I was going to enjoy this city. The beautiful old buildings and the lovely parks give the city a wonderful charm.

The family I was staying is so wonderful, warm, and helpful. Aida, the mum, cooked delicious food and made something extra that is vegan for me. My host Carmelo, an enthusiast meat eater, joined me twice to a vegetarian restaurant and fell in love with the falafels. They have seven dogs and a beautiful home with a garden where Carmelo takes care of his flowers. We watched movies together, did karaoke, danced, and went for many walks in the city and parks. My favourite parts of the city were Plaza 14 de Septiembre, Plaza Colón with its parrots, and to walk along El Prado.

Cochabamba is one of the safest cities in Bolivia. However, the area around the main bus terminal is not very safe late at night and on the stairs of the hill with the Christ statue Cerro de San Pedro have been robberies, some during the day.

Cochabamba has buses (micros), mini-vans (trufis) and shared taxis (taxi-trufis) that run along fixed routes. There are no set stops and in order to get off, you must say “voy a bajar” (I want to get off) or “esquina” (for stop at the corner). All are 2 Bs. At night they charge double.

Santa Cruz de la Sierra

Santa Cruz is different than the rest of Bolivia. It is very hot, humid, flat, not very touristic, and has a nice mixture of people. The Plaza Principal 24 De Septiembre is beautiful, especially by night. At the plaza is a nice museum. The Casa Municipal de Cultura Raul Otero Reiche has rotating exhibitions with local artists and some private collections (free). We ate many Achachairú’s. This little sweet and sour, orange fruit only grows in this part of Bolivia! Brazil and Australia took some and started to grow their own. The season runs from December to March and the taste is unique. I still can recall the smell.


The first two nights we stayed in the 360 Grados hostel. It was clean, had AC, and a big kitchen. After we stayed with Yerko. He was new to couchsurfing but knew exactly what a traveller needs. He made us feel home. The apartment was very clean, he plays guitar wonderfully, is always in a good mood, is fun, smart, very helpful, thoughtful, and we enjoyed some really nice conversations. One evening he even invited us to a vegetarian restaurant and the next day he drove us to the airport during his lunch break. What a gentleman! He was amazing.


Samaipata is a small town in the countryside with a temperate climate. We took a collectivo from “Salida a Samaipata Estrellita” (3h, 30 Bs. each). Usually you have to wait for 5-7 people before it leaves. The journey was curvy and half of the way was not paved. Arrived in Samaipata we hiked up to Hostal Serena (10 minutes). A home-like hostel with a beautiful outside garden and an amazing homemade breakfast with fruits, avocado, juice, coffee, bread, and roasted chia oats (possible vegan). A night in a three-bedroom is 85 Bs. We were lucky and had the room for ourselves. There is no WIFI but it was possible to use their computer. Later we went in the town. The exploring didn’t take long at all. Everything in town is a few minutes from the central square. But Samaipata is surrounded by hills and the town has a very relaxed vibe and great coffee places (e.g. Caffe Art). No wonder people stay here for a week or longer.

On our way back to Santa Cruz we visited the “Cuevas”. It is located 20km out of town (5 Bs. by local bus; 40 Bs. by taxi), has three small waterfalls, and sandy beaches. Entrance is 15 Bs. From there we flagged down a minibus back to Santa Cruz (25 Bs. each). Buses from Samaipata to Santa Cruz leave every hour. Taxi driver will most probably tell you there exist no buses.

Sucre (2’810 m)

Sucre is such a pretty capital with its white buildings that it tends to suck in travellers who find it difficult to leave. It happened to me. The climate is wonderful spring-like and the large student population gives the city a youthful vibe and happening nightlife. I highly recommend the website that shows current events. Joy Ride Cafe offers free salsa and bachata lessons every Tuesday and Thursday at 9.30 pm. Every Wednesday at 7pm are free salsa lessons at Kultur Café Berlin. The park Simón Bolívar is beautiful and Recoleta is a nice overlook especially by sunset. Central Market and Mercado Campesino are places to get fresh food. Bus 3 and A go to the bus terminal (2 Bs.).

My first host in Sucre, Daniel, received me with a smile and open arms in the early morning, offered me cinnamon tea, and let me sleep for a few more hours. We explored the city and Yotala on his motorbike. Each curve I was relieved that we made it.

My second host, Omar, owns a hostel where I stayed (Hostal travelers Guesthouse). The hostel had an outside area to relax and enjoy the sun, a well equipped kitchen, was very clean, and had contagiously great vibe. In the evening we cooked together, went out dancing, and shared some interesting conversations.

Celtic Cross hostel. A clean hostel with a well-equipped kitchen. I loved their pans, pots, knives, and spices. Great quality and great wifi! Every fourth night is free. If you take minimum 4 hours Spanish lessons per day (MO-FR, 45 Bs. per hour) in the hostel you can stay for free during weekdays. One night in a dorm is 39 Bs.

Salt Flats tour of Uyuni

On this tour I went to some of the most impressive and beautiful places on earth I have ever been! My highlights were the striking red coloured Laguna Colorado, the Laguna Cañapa with its countless flamingos, the first night in a hotel out of salt bricks, the magical geyser for sunrise, and to swim in the hot spring.

The food was good. They prepared soja meat and eggplants for me. Dairy products were harder to avoid. The first lunch had sprinkled cheese on everything, the bread for breakfast had some cheese on top, and the pancakes contained butter. I only have a lactose intolerance when I eat a lot of cheese. So I was fine with eating just a bit. Dinner always started with tea and some snacks and the second evening we got a bottle of wine.

The third day is pretty much the return trip to Uyuni. We got up very early to watch the sunrise at the geyser. I took a bath in the hot spring (6 Bs.). And then I had to change the jeep because I had a transfer to Chile. The bus usually leaves around 10am from the border crossing. But before we visited Laguna Verde which was more brown than green. Our guide said it is greener in the afternoon. It has a lot to do with the wind and the minerals that come up.

Possible are either a one-, three-, or four-day tour. The tour starts at around 10:30 am. Each jeep takes maximum six people. I booked my three-day tour with Hodaka in Uyuni since they have good reviews (no drunk drivers) the same morning I started the tour. I payed 800 Bs. which included the bus to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile (50 Bs.). Usual price is 700-750 Bs.

Good to know:

  • They serve one bottle of water and Coca Cola each meal for six people. Insofar I recommend to take water with you.
  • There are many banks in Uyuni. It is possible to pay the tour agency in USD. But the rest of the tour you need to pay in Bolivianos.
  • You will go up to 5’000 m. Acclimatisation is beneficial.
  • The entrance fee to the national park close to Lagoon Colorado is usually not included (150 Bs.).
  • A visit to Isla del Pescado is optional (30 Bs.).
  • Toilets charge between 2-5 Bs.
  • There is no phone or Internet signal.
  • It is possible to take a (hot) shower in the first hotel for 25 Bs. The second hotel is very basic. No shower, electricity for only a few hours.
  • It gets very cold. Especially at night.
  • The jeeps can drop you off at the border with Chile and arrange for a transfer bus to take you to Chile.

Interesting to know

  • Bolivia is very wealthy in minerals (e.g. tin, lithium).
  • Bolivians protest a lot.
  • The current president, Evo Morales, is the first indigenous Bolivian president. He gave the indigenous majority more power.
  • Che Guevara was killed in 1967 in Bolivia.


Eating in Bolivia was such a nice and delicious experience that I wrote its own blog entry: Vegan eating in Bolivia.

The tap water at most places is not recommended to drink. Although Bolivians may do so. Their stomachs are used to it. It is best to boil the tap water.


  • Couchsurfing is not very popular in Bolivia yet. I found a host in each city besides Copacabana. Together with my boyfriend it was more difficult to find a host.
  • Hostels are available for 40-85 Bs. per night in a dorm.
  • Volunteering is a nice option to spend a few weeks at one place.
  • Camping is possible at some places (e.g. Copacabana).


The transport system is chaotic. It is not unusual for buses to be delayed by protests leaving people stranded for days. I was lucky that one big protest just finished when I entered the country. Some roads are still unpaved, making traveling long and bumpy. Unfortunately there are drunk drivers and often dysfunctional on-board toilets. When I travelled with the bus company El Dorado we were twice close to a collision. It was an adventure! The bus terminals charge 2.50 Bs. for using it.

Long-distance buses typically cost about 3 to 10 Bs. per hour. Local collectivos inside a city are usually 2 to 4 Bs. The local collectivos usually stop whenever you like. If you want to get off just call “baja”. So the driver knows that he should stop.

For some Bolivians the traffic lights are like Christmas lights. So as a pedestrian if you see a gap, run for your life.

Buses I took:

  • Bus from Puno, Peru to Copacabana, Bolivia: 20 soles (4h). First bus leaves at 6am. You will get off the bus in Yunguyo to check out of Peru, cross the bridge on foot, check into Bolivia, and then board your bus again.
  • Collectivo from Copacabana (departing from Plaza Sucre) to La Paz (Cemetery terminal, leaves every hour, 3.5h): 25 Bs. At one point on the way you will have to exit the bus and buy a ticket (2 Bs.) for the brief boat ride across the lake. The bus will collect you on the other side.
  • Bus from La Paz (Terminal de buses Lapaz) to Cochabamba: 20 Bs. (8.5h, El Dorado).
  • Overnight bus from Cochabamba to Sucre: 30 Bs. (7h, San Francisco).
  • Overnight bus at 8.30 pm from Sucre (main bus terminal) to Uyuni: 70 Bs. (7-8h, 6 De Octubre). I arrived at 4.20 am. It is freezing cold outside and there is no bus terminal. The guy who sat next to me let me sleep for a few hours in his house. It is also possible to stay in the bus for a few more hours.
  • Overnight bus from Uyuni to Sucre: 70 Bs. (7.5 h, 6 de Octubre, direct, daily at 10pm).


Like anywhere else it is important to be careful and use plain common sense. Ask which the neighbourhoods you should avoid are. Petty theft and slashing (of bags) happen sometimes. Especially in busses.


Altitude sickness is not felt until you surpass 2500m. Even though Bolivia’s altitudes ranges from 90 to 6542 meters above sea level most cities are above 2500m. It is basically your body telling you it is not getting enough oxygen. Most common symptoms are a headache, nausea and tiredness. In very small number of cases, you could also suffer from significant shortness of breath, confusion, drowsiness, coma and even death. That is why it is very important to give yourself enough time to acclimatise at least a few days. Rest, drink plenty of water and suck coca leaves that many believe helps alleviate altitude’s affect on the body. Alcohol goes to your head more quickly at higher altitude.


Bolivia’s weather differs greatly depending on the altitude and topography of the region. The highlands (west) are less affected by rain. The rainforest (northernmost area) has an equatorial climate with hot and humid weather and rain distributed all year long. I do not recommend visiting the Amazon forest in the rainy season (November to March) since it is often flooded. In the lowlands (east. e.g. Santa Cruz de la Sierra) the climate is tropical, with a dry season in winter (May to October), and a wet season in summer (November to March). Temperatures tend to drop slightly in the winter.


Spanish is the official and predominant language although 36 indigenous languages also have official status, of which the most commonly spoken are Guarani, Aymara and Quechua. English is taught in schools. I was surprised how many of the people I met spoke great English. Some even French and German.


Official currency: Bolivian Bolíviano (BOB). At many banks it is only possible to withdraw 500 Bs. each time. At Bancofie I could withdraw 1’500 Bs. with Mastercard and Visa.


No entrance or exit fees for everybody. Most visitors are granted a 30 day tourist entry. If you want to stay longer you can extend your stay free of charge easily in most major Bolivian cities for another 30 days. Be aware that 90 days is the maximum stay per calendar year. Note that you can only apply for an extension when you have 5 days or less left on your current stay. You need a photocopy of each of the following: Passport photo page, Passport page showing Bolivian entry stamp, and Bolivian tourist card (the form that was stamped and returned to you when you entered the country).

U.S. citizens need a tourist Visa (160 USD cash).

Vegan eating in Bolivia


Vegan eating in Bolivia

Bolivian food is heavily meat and potato based. I was told that it would even be hard as a vegetarian. Especially since there is a lack of kitchens in hostels in Copacabana and La Paz for example. So I am really happy that I found delicious restaurants with vegan options. Some of them opened recently. In Copacabana I stayed in a vegetarian/vegan hostel called Hostal Joshua. In La Paz I was very lucky to have had a great Couchsurfing host who is very interested in a whole-food, plant-based diet. I taught him how to make peanut butter and hummus. In Cochabamba I stayed with a wonderful family. Aida, the mum, cooked delicious food and made something extra that is vegan for me. Same for my host in Sucre who made me Papás a la Guancaina, a traditional Bolivian dish, an almost vegan version (contained eggs) one evening. That was sweet.

A meal in a vegetarian/vegan restaurant is between 20 and 45 Bs. Food in Sucre is most expensive. In La Paz food is very cheap. The famous peanut soup (sopa de mani) is worth a try. Just ask to leave out the meat if you do not eat meat. It comes with pasta and french fries.

I bought most of my food in little stores on the road and at big vegetable and fruit markets. Some examples: 1 avocado (2-8 Bs.), 1 pound tomatoes (5 Bs.), 25 bananas (8 Bs.), 1 pound peanuts (10-40 Bs.), 1 pound quinoa (8-20 Bs.), 1 pound chia seeds (10 Bs.), 1 pound peanut butter (12 Bs.). I only found the peanut butter in La Paz at Mercado Rodriguez.

Often in corners of big markets are women with massive pots of cooked beans, vegetables, and rice — offering plates for 5-10 Bs. The most famous Bolivian street food is Salteñas. Baked empanadas with mostly meat. Only a few only have vegetables inside. Supermarkets (e.g. Hipermaxi in La Paz) do have tahini (Pasta de Sésamo, 200g, 25 Bs.), hummus (200g, 22 Bs.), and coconut milk (15 Bs.).

La Paz

Namas Té (vegetarian with many vegan options)

Paul, the owner, let me help to serve in his restaurant in exchange for the menu del dia which is always vegan (29 Bs.). Each meal starts with bread and a sauce. I had a lentil salad, vegetable fidelo soup, Sajta (a traditional Bolivian dish), and a juice. Everything was so delicious!

Dishes from the menu are between 29 and 35 Bs. I had Peanut-thai (rice noodles, tofu, peanut sauce, veggies; 29 Bs.) and Barbara (boiled habas, carrot, soy meat, onion, potato; 33 Bs.). The smoothie Choco Loco with cacao, banana, coffee, and peanut butter was so delicious (21 Bs.). And the oat cookie is a dream 🙂

Café Vida La Paz (100% vegan)

The restaurant is run by the admirable 22-year-old Ninneth. I was very impressed by her age, her passion, and the offer. She showed us the kitchen and took time to explain everything to us. The chill area in the back, the music, and her sweet smile made the whole dining experience wonderful.

Most of the vegetables come from an organization of women farmers who grow organic products. The lunch offer (veggie bowl plus the soup of the day) is a great deal (35 Bs.). We got a beetroot soup and had the option to top with hummus, seeds, and bread. Included, as much cold tea as you want. For main courses we chose the Hippie bowl (quinoa, hummus, tomato, sweet potato, and avocado) and the Quinoa burger (rye bread, avocado, hummus, salad, and baked veggies). As a desert we had a chaí ice cream with coco. So delicious! It is possible to buy there a menstrual cup, nutritional yeast, and some other interesting products.

Lupito Cocina Vegana (100% vegan)

On my first visit I had an amazing Calzone with vegetables and melted vegan cheese (20 Bs.). Still remember the taste of the cheese. My second time I had a thick delicious vegetable soup and bread with a spicy tomato sauce. As main course chicharrón based on soybeans, mote, and Chuño (small dried potatoes). As desert a coconut flan with hibiscus caramel. The menu del dia is 23 Bs. And changes daily. The main focus of Paola and Lupita, the owners, is to reduce suffering for the animals. But they also encourage to bring a hermetical box for leftovers. Great people with exemplary character.

MagicK (vegan options)

Stephan, the owner, is living his dream. The restaurant is a great place for a romantic date or another rendezvous. On some evenings they have stand-up comedy shows or concerts. We had a chickpea and aubergine curry with rice, fruit chutney, and chapatti (flatbread) (45 Bs.). And a traditional Bolivian dish with tunta (dried white potato), beans, and salad (42 Bs.). As desert we had a mousse au chocolate with seasonal fruits (26 Bs.). Everything was very delicious and the presentation beautiful. They do catering as well.

Go Green comida rápida (vegetarian with vegan options)

Gabriel, the owner, also has an architect’s office that tries to generate harmony with the environment. We enjoyed a very delicious fruity Terranova salad with lettuce, quinoa, a seasonal fruit, beans, morron, cilantro sauce, and sesame (25 Bs.) and the Mexican Panini with beans, pico de gallo, and cilantro sauce (23 Bs.). All dished are available as vegan.


A Vietnamese restaurant with tofu as vegan option. One of the only options without sugar is Kung Pao with roasted peanuts, lemon grass, garlic, chilies, and tofu. It comes together with white rice (58 Bs.). Unfortunately the tofu was very stale. But the sauce was nice.



Karott (100% vegan)

A new opened restaurant by such a sweet couple. All meals start with whole wheat bread and two delicious sauces. One spicy and the other with zucchini, cilantro, lime, and salt. The menu del dia changes daily (20 Bs.). I was lucky to be there when they served a typical Bolivian dish named Saice. Rice with vegan meat, peas, vegetables and tomatoes with onions that are sprinkled with vegan cheese. The soup that consisted of potatoes, green leaves, and nuts was delicious as well. The owner, Rodrigo, is very attentive and open-minded. His wife is behind the tasty dishes. Since the number of tables are limited and the restaurant is well-attended you share a table with somebody. I love that 🙂 It is possible to buy homemade peanut butter, tahini, and other delicacies.

Menta Restobar (vegetarian with vegan options)

Famous for their huge variety of burgers (29 Bs.). All available as a vegan option. So fresh, filling, and delicious! The falafels are crispy outside and warm, soft, and creamy inside. My couchsurfing host, an enthusiast meat eater, fell in love with the falafels. So did I.


Drinks include healthy juices (10 Bs.). I loved the one called Remo: beet, apple, celery, and ginger. The restaurant has tasteful decoration and wifi. Check out their Facebook page for the menu del dia which comes with a salad, soup, and main course (21 Bs.). It is not always vegan.

Paprika Restaurant

Leo, the supervisor of Paprika, welcomed me very warm, advised me well, and we shared lunch together. They do not have a vegan meal per se but it is possible to leave out the cheese in some dishes. We had the Mediterranean quinoa that comes together with olives and dried tomatoes (43 Bs.). And we tried the Spring fetuccine that comes with lots of vegetables and mushrooms (56 Bs.). I could even visit the kitchen and see how they prepare the food. It was such an interesting and delicious afternoon.


El Germen (vegetarian with vegan options)

Dishes are big and delicious. The staff is very nice. All meals start with bread accompanied by a spicy ají sauce. The menu del dia which changes daily consists of a vegetable soup, two main dishes to choose from (one vegan), juice, and a desert (24 Bs.). One of my juices was with sesame seeds. Que rico 🙂 From the menu I tried Falafel with rice, peanut sauce, and cooked vegetables (40 Bs.). Such crispy falafels and tasty peanut sauce. The curry with vegetables is another vegan option from the menu. I ate there three times during my stay in Sucre and hope to go back one day.

Koi Sushi Bar Sucre

A new opened sushi place by such a warm hearted couple. I could feel that they devote all their love and time in their restaurant. The restaurant is not vegan per se but they do have a few vegan options and are very flexible. As an appetizer they made me crunchy vegetables tempura. The vegetarian spring rolls are vegan as well (4 pieces for 20 Bs.). I had Uramaki with avocado, sweet potatoes, and champignons (8 pieces for 45 Bs.) and Hotmaki especial con crema de palta. Such a delight!


An Arepas place. Not vegan but you can mix as you want. I had an arepa with avocado, beans, tomatoes, and fried plaintain (18 Bs.). Super delicious!


Prem Sucre (100% vegan)

Prem Sucre at San Alberto 54 is a small, well-attended restaurant. I had the menu del dia (22 Bs.) which started with a salad, cornbread, a carrot soup, and a Melissa mate sweetened with stevia. Main course was rice and potatoes with fried, breaded eggplant. Desert was rice with soy milk and stevia.

Condor Café (vegetarian)

I went there a few times for their delicious Cappuccino with soy milk. The menu del dia is vegetarian (25 Bs.). The only vegan option is a salad. But it is possible to get their Falafel sandwich which is served with salad, hummus and tabouli without the bread (contains eggs) and the yoghurt sauce (25 Bs.). They have avocado to replace any dairy products. The beautiful ambiente and board games invite to stay for a few hours. All profit goes toward community projects around Sucre.

Peru – Ruins and pan flute music


Peru – Ruins and pan flute music

In our two months in Peru we volunteered in a Hare Krishna temple, hiked to a beautiful glacial lake, sandboarded in Huacachina, ate at delicious vegan restaurants, joined a multi-day tour in the Amazon rainforest, met wonderful people, and visited Machu Picchu.

We entered Peru in La Tina and hitchhiked to Las Lomas where we slept one night in a hotel. The next morning we hitchhiked to Piura which has one of the biggest markets I have ever been.


In Chiclayo we stayed in a house that was affected by the flooding in March 2017. So the house was literally falling apart and the walls and blankets were molded. I did not feel very comfortable. But our host was very nice and vegan as well. So we had some nice conversations.

Since there was not much to do in the city we treated ourselves to a massage (25 soles). We explored the huge Mercado Modelo. A market where you can find almost all you need for a good price. And we ate at a vegan restaurant named Loving Hut (10-13 soles per meal). We learnt very early that there were many more Indigenous cultures than just the Incas.


We had a great host in Trujillo who joined us for a walk and to the beautiful Plaza de Armas. Every Sunday people sell second-hand clothes close to the New Market La Union. I bought a pair of trousers for only 1 sol. The Mercado La Hermelinda offers a huge variety of food for a good price.

Our next stop was Nuevo Chimbote which has a nice main plaza. But there was not much to do either. After hitchhiking for two weeks till we arrived at the first place in Peru that was on our original To Visit list – Laguna 69 in Huaraz – we decided to take buses for the rest of Peru. Distances are huge and there is not much in between. A third of the population of Peru (>10 Mio.) lives in Lima. Most of the North of Peru near the coast is desert.

Laguna 69

Located in the National Park Huascarán which offers many different hikes which you can do on your own or with a tour. We stayed in Caraz to be closer to Laguna 69, a glacial lake. Most backpackers stay in Huaraz though. It makes sense to go with a tour (35-50 soles per person for all transport). To go by public transport is around 34-42 soles and involves a change of the bus in Yungay. Our host was a tour guide and we paid him 40 soles. He even made a stop at the beautiful Laguna de Llanganuco.


The hike to Laguna 69 is a tough trek but absolutely stunning.

Good to know:

  • Laguna 69 is at 4,680 m. You start walking at 3’900 m. Give yourself time to acclimatise to the altitude.
  • Hike duration: 3h up, 2h down.
  • There are multiple bus stations in Huaraz. Most bus companies departure from the street Jiron Simón Bolívar.
  • Take warm clothes with you. It gets cold further up and in the late afternoon.
  • Pass: You can either buy a 1-day pass for 10 soles or a 21-day pass for 65 soles. It is not possible to buy anything in between.
  • If you camp in the national park you can get a ride back to Huaraz with one of the tour buses with empty seats. This costs the same as public transport.


The capital Lima is a very busy and huge city. Earplugs recommended 😉 During winter, from June to September, the sky is almost always cloudy. I usually do not like big cities. But Lima offers so many things to do and restaurants to eat that we stayed there for a week. My highlight in Lima was the Eureka Café Lúdico. It has hundreds board and card games. You can pick one and a staff member will come to your table and explain all the rules in English or Spanish. I was impressed. We played Cortex and Saboteur.

In the beautiful Reserve Park we spend a romantic evening watching the water fountain show. There are many other fountains in the park which are nice to visit before the show. The one called Labyrinth is interactive and the possibility to get wet is high. Open from Tuesday to Sunday. Water show at 19:15, 20:15, and 21:30. Entry is 4 soles.

I highly recommend to explore the alternative artistic neighbourhood Barranco.

Every Saturday from 8:30 am to 2:30 pm there is an organic market – the Bioferia – in the Parque Reducto No. 2 in Miraflores. In Lima are countless restaurants that offer vegan options. Check out TripAdvisor and use the different filters. At the Panadería El Pan De La Chola we had a great brunch. At Tarboush we had the best hummus and falafel since a long time.

We spend a whole afternoon in the art museum MALI. It is huge. Free entry every Thursday from 3pm and last Friday of each month from 5 to 10pm. General: 30 soles. The MATE Mario Testino Museum was very nice and interesting.

On a clear and sunny day it is nice to walk along the Malecon and to visit the Main Square. Much of the nightlife takes place in Calle Berlin. We visited all three Choco Museums in Lima. Because chocolate 😉

Sandboarding in Huacachina

We stayed in Ica. At around noon we went with a collective to the artificial oasis, Huacachina (2.50 soles, 10 Mins.). A very small place that is nice for a few hours. It is possible to swim in the lagoon.


I recommend the 4pm tour as the temperature is cooler then, plus it includes to watch the sunset in the desert (30 soles which includes the entrance to the desert). The ride with the dune buggy was like a rollercoaster.


A beautiful city with nice parks high in the Andes Mountains at 3416 m. It got very chilly in the evening. There is a great donation-based walking tour by Free Tours by Foot. The Plaza de Armas is beautiful. One evening we met Maxime from Amsterdam. A Camp Unknown friend we met two years ago at the same festival (Sziget) Drew and I met.

Green Point (100% vegan)
What a delight! Definitely one of the best vegan restaurants we visited so far. Once we ordered the set menu del dia for lunch that comes with a juice, salad bar, soup, choice from one of two main courses, and dessert (15 soles). The second time we ordered from the menu (main courses range from 12-30 soles). Their ceviche (oyster mushrooms) was by far the best I ever ate.

Volunteering in a Hare Krishna temple in Cusco

In Cusco we volunteered for a week in a Hare Krishna temple. It was an interesting experience. Women and men sleep in separate rooms. Not much physical contact allowed. Eating in the kitchen is not allowed. You can only enter the kitchen with a clean mouth. The food is vegetarian and they do not eat eggs because it is the egg of the menstruation and they do not want to risk that the egg might be fertilised. It was really nice that they made us extra meals that are vegan and taught us how to make vegan cheese. Unfortunately we got proteins only once during that week. When I asked them why they eat dairy products they said it is because Krishna loves milk and that is how it is written in the Bhagavad Gita. I like that they aim a detachment from the material world.

In the morning the women clean and make breakfast and the men make bread. When I asked if I could help with the bread one of the female devotee explained to me that it is very hot in the bakery and women are more sensitive than men. The Bhagavad Gita is known for being sexist. But one has to consider the time it was written. Happily many do not take the Bhagavad Gita word for word and know that it is important to adapt to the current society. After the men came back we had a ceremony. At noon or sometimes at 2pm we ate “breakfast”. “Lunch” was at 6pm and sometimes 8pm. There are only two meals per day but we could snack as much as we wanted. After breakfast most people went out and sold the bread on the street. They not have a license but there is a law that moving while selling is okay but we had to watch out for police in orange vests that can confiscate our baskets of bread. I started to paint a wall mandala in the last few days. Their logo with a tree in the middle located in the dining room.


The temple was beautiful. The devotees spent a lot of time decorating it each morning. Having never stayed in a temple, I pictured a calm, quiet area with people meditating.  In this temple, it was not like that. In the early morning people were listening to music and in the evening people had mantra (chanting) parties. Many people stayed awake until 1 or 2 am.

Volunteering in Taray in the Sacred Valley

A beautiful place in the nature. Syama our host has the dream of building a retreat centre. There is already a yoga studio, a huge garden, a sweat lodge, a place for meditation, meetings, and group workshops. There is still a lot of work ahead and he has no money. Many of the bathrooms do not work, no hot shower, and the beds are like a taco. I cleaned a lot and started to paint a signboard for the retreat centre. Drew helped in the garden, did some woodwork, and made a website for him.


We exchanged four hours of work in the mornings for a room with two beds and food was bought and shared by volunteers. Syama is a devotee of Krishna and is therefore vegetarian (no eggs, as well). Unfortunately, we never saw him buy food. He only offered to gather money from volunteers and then buy food for everyone. It was nice of him to offer to go to get the food but we wish he would have contributed to the food as agreed on. However, we were able to join him one evening for a three hour sauna ritual. That was a very nice and hot experience. I am very grateful for the time we spend at Sonqo Wasi.

Way to Machu Picchu without train

We took a bus from Pisac to Urubamba (3 soles) and then a collectivo to Ollantaytambo (2 soles, 30 Mins.). At Plaza Ollantaytambo the last collectivo directly to hidroelectrica leaves at 10:30 am (25-30 soles, 4h). The only way to get from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes is by foot along the rails (2-2.5 h). A stunning hike. We had a fun time with Tom, an American guy we volunteered with in Taray, who joined us to Machu Picchu. There are actually collectivos that go directly from Hydroelectrica back to Cusco for 30 soles.

Aguas Calientes (2090 m)

We stayed at Casa Machu Picchu in Aguas Calientes (26 soles for a dorm). It had a kitchen to use but they were very loud in the evening. Not a great deal if you want to get up at 4 am the next day. There is also camping for 15 soles each. We bought our ticket to Machu Picchu in Aguas Calientes in the tourist office (150 soles, open until 8pm). The control at the bottom of Machu Picchu opens at 5 am. The hike up takes around 1.5h. Luckily we did not have to wait that long. We were excited to visit the Govinda Restaurant in Aguas Calientes. It has nice vegan options. Aguas Calientes is a touristic but very beautiful little town to walk around.

Machu Picchu (2430 m)

Definitely one of my highlights in Peru. The hike up is tough but extremely rewarding. The morning fog makes the whole experience very mystic. The section of the mountain where Machu Picchu was built provided various challenges. One issue was the seismic activity which made mortar nearly useless. Instead, the Inca cut blocks of stone to fit together perfectly without mortar.

Another issue was heavy rain throughout the year. To prevent landslides and flooding the Inca built terraces that were layered with stone chips, sand, dirt and top soil, to absorb water slowly. A very smart drainage system. Multiple canals and reserves provided water throughout the city. To see all of that with my own eyes was very impressive.

On our way back to Cusco we stayed a few days in Ollantaytambo. A very small, beautiful and peaceful town. There are cobblestones, streams, a small market, nice ruins, and a few cosy restaurants. In Urubamba we stopped at Cerveceria Willkamayu. The brewery turned out to be in the house of a family. They were extremely nice. We were told it is normally closed on a Sunday but they warmly welcomed us into their beautiful garden and even made me a coffee. In Europe or the USA it would be very hard to just open a little brewery in your house. There is a lot of paperwork involved.

Puerto Maldonado (193 m)

Puerto Maldonado is located in the Amazon rainforest and therefore very hot and humid. Mosquito repellent recommended. We watched a beautiful sunset at 5:30 am from the rooftop of our host’s house. The sun is red. For sunset and sunrise.


La Semilla Cafe-Restauant-Pasteleria

Such a great restaurant. Beautiful rooftop terrace with comfortable sofas to relax for a few hours. The staff was very friendly and helpful. They made a vegan pizza for us and substituted avocado for cheese. We had a cappuccino with coconut milk. The smoothie with banana, avocado, chocolate and lucuma was so delicious and filling!

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Amazon tour

There are many different agencies close to the Plaza the Armas that offer tours. The tour we booked started at 8:30 am and finishing at 5 pm on the third day (450 soles per person). We had a great time with activities. We went kayaking, zip lining, to the canopy walk, and visited the Monkey Island where we fed the monkeys bananas.

One day we visited Lake Sandoval in the Tambopata National Reserve where we saw an otter family, giant birds, turtles, and countless butterlflies.

In the night we went caiman spotting. At 4:30 am we went with a boat to the parrot and parakeet clay lick. The sunrise and the red macow were impressive.


The jungle walk was very interesting since our guide knew a lot about different medicinal plants and animals.

On our last day we visited a native family that consisted of only two men. But we had fun shooting with bow and arrows anyway. Drew hit the tree at his first try.

The accommodation was very clean and comfortable. We had a bungalow with a private bathroom and hot water. Since it was an eco-lodge the electricity was running only a few hours during the day and there was no Wi-Fi. That was nice. I loved to fall asleep with the sound of the jungle. Our lodge had a black spider monkey. Unfortunately I think he had to be in a small cage most of the time. He was very trustful and hugged everybody.

We booked our tour with Paradise Amazon eco lodge & adventure because they promised to serve well-balanced vegetarian food with no lactose – but legumes, avocado, and rice. We were served rice and a few vegetables. No replacement. That left us hungry. Example: While people got Ceviche, we got a plate with ten little pieces of tomato. Luckily we brought bananas and peanuts. When we told the manager there was no sorry, no empathy, and she refused any responsibility for the empty promises. It seems if they have too many bad reviews on TripAdvisor they just change the name. I would not recommend this lodge to vegetarians, vegans, or anyone who does not “eat like a normal person.” – The manager.

Arequipa (2335 m)

The white buildings built from volcanic rocks in the historical centre make this city to one of the prettiest in Peru and the all year round spring like climate makes Arequipa to a very nice destination. We had a very relaxed time and enjoyed delicious food. Free Tours by Foot offers a very nice walking tour.

From a Couchsurfer we bought second-hand a tent and a sleeping bag for Patagonia. Another sleeping bag we bought in the supermarket Metro. The San Camilo market is huge and the place we bought fresh fruits and vegetables. Right in front of the market sells a lady vegetable Empanadas for 1 sol.


El Buda Profano (100% vegan)

A sushi place that attracts people from all over. Even omnivores. Why? Because they serve one of the best sushi I ever ate. I will never forget the taste of the Selva Uramaki: Cucumber, shiitake and avocado topped with mango. I also really liked the Verde Futomaki: artichoke, cucumber, avocado, and spinach. The ramen and the ceviche were delicious (10 soles each). The presentation is beautiful, the ingredients fresh, the service fast, and the sushi creative. We ate there twice. Once we were invited by Alan, the manager. A great Canadian guy who has plans of moving to a location to accommodate more tables and also expanding to other cities. I highly recommend to check them out and delight your senses. A mixed sushi tray with 30 pieces is 35 soles.

Las Gringas

We had a very delicious and filling gluten free vegan pizza (30 soles). The crust is made of tapioca, cornmeal and rice. The topping consists of avocado cheese, sesame seeds, beetroot leaves, cashew parmesan, and olive oil. They serve free filtered water and all the ingredients are fresh, organic, and local. In the same house is a great rooftop with comfortable seats to relax.


Crepisimo is not really specialized in vegan food since the crepes are made up of eggs. But Michel, the owner, invited Drew and me for lunch to hear more about our trip and vegan food. He made sure to change the dishes into a vegan version. That was really nice and the quinoa salad was extremely delicious. Michel is from Neuchâtel in Switzerland and has lived together with his wife in Peru for over 20 years. It was such a pleasure to meet both of them.

Mandala (vegetarian with vegan options)

We only tried the Lomo Saltado. A typical Peruvian dish that came with fried potatoes, rice, onions, tomatoes and seitan instead of meat (14 soles). It had a lot of oil but the seitan was great!


Eating in Peru was a truly wonderful and delicious experience! There are several vegan/vegetarian restaurants and huge markets with fresh vegetables and fruits. Peru has over 3,000 different types of potatoes, black corn, delicious olives, and a love for bread. Exotic fruits I loved to eat in Peru: lucmo, cherimoya, and guava.

We bought most of our food in little stores down the road or at big food markets (e.g. Mercado Modelo). Some examples to have an idea: 1 avocado called palta (1-2 soles), tomatoes (2-3 soles per kg), 6 bananas (1 sol), potatoes (1.50-2.50 soles per kg), carrots (2-3 soles per kg), 1 garlic (0.50 soles), peanuts (10-12 soles per kg), quinoa (4-8 soles per kg), lentils (6 soles per kg), olives (16 soles per kg), chia seeds (10 soles per kg).

A meal in a local restaurant (almuerzo) is between 6 and 8 soles. If you do not eat meat they are almost everywhere happy to replace the meat with an egg or sometimes beans. A meal in a vegetarian/vegan restaurant is between 15 and 30 soles. Food in Lima is most expensive. In Huaraz and Caraz, food is very cheap.

Peruvian street food is amazing. Cooked potatoes (over 3,000 different potatoes), chochos, corn, tamales with raisins, vegetable empanadas. Many market offer cooked beans (1-2 soles), cooked vegetables (1 sol), with a spicy sauce (0.50 soles).

The tap water at most places is not recommended to drink. Although Peruvians may do so. Their stomachs are used to it. It is best to boil the tap water.


  • Couchsurfing is popular in Peru. In Huaraz and Cusco many host are working in tourism and are using CS as a way to advertise their business. In Cusco we stayed in an Airbnb advertised by a CS host (24 soles for a private double).
  • Hostels are available for 13 soles per night in a dorm (e.g. Huaraz). In Lima for 35 soles per night in a dorm. The only hostels we stayed was in Ollantaytambo (Ollantaytampu Hostel – Main Square, 20 soles each) and in Aguas Calientes (26 soles each).
  • Volunteering is a nice option to spend a few weeks at one place.
  • Camping is possible at some places (e.g. Aguas Calientes, National Park Huascarán).


Buses we took:

  • Overnight bus from Caraz to Lima: 40 soles (10h, Rodriguez).
  • Overnight bus from Ica to Cusco: 90 soles (17h, Palomino).
  • Overnight bus from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado: 35 soles (10h, Movil Tours).
  • Overnight bus from Puerto Maldonado to Arequipa: 45 soles (15h, Wayra).
  • Overnight bus from Arequipa to Puno: 35 soles (6h, Cruz del Sur).

If you suffer from motion sickness I recommend to take something (e.g. ginger) since the section from Ica to Cusco was quite curvy. I did not take anything, and therefore the toilet was my best friend.

Good bus companies: Movil Tours and Cruz del Sur (own TV, blanket, headphones, food at 11pm, a place for your water bottle, the bathroom has soap and water and it actually flushes). Much cheaper when you book 1-2 weeks ahead. Most bus stations charge between 2-5 soles for using the bus station.

Long-distance buses typically cost about 3 to 6 soles per hour. Local buses inside a city are usually 1 to 2.50 soles. The local buses usually stop whenever you like. If you want to get off the bus just call “baja”. So the bus driver knows that he should stop. When people are getting on the bus the guy in charge of the money repeatedly says in an urgent tone “sube, sube, sube” (get on).

We hitchhiked only in the north of Peru. We learnt early that we have to ask if it is free since some people do not know the idea of hitchhiking.

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Like anywhere else it is important to be careful and use plain common sense. Ask which the neighbourhoods you should avoid are. Petty theft and slashing (of bags) happen sometimes. Especially in bigger cities (e.g. Lima) and busses.


Altitude sickness is not felt until you surpass 2500m. It is basically your body telling you it is not getting enough oxygen. Most common symptoms are a headache, nausea and tiredness. In very small number of cases, you could also suffer from significant shortness of breath, confusion, drowsiness, coma and even death. That is why it is very important to give yourself enough time to acclimatise at least a few days. Rest, drink plenty of water and suck coca leaves that many believe helps alleviate altitude’s affect on the body. Available on the market for 1 sol. Once I ate a coca tortilla. After my mouth was numb for a while. Alcohol goes to your head more quickly at higher altitude. So take care with those Pisco Sours.


The climate in Peru is very diverse. The coast is arid with high temperatures. In the Andes it can get very cold with rainy summers (December to February) and dry winters (June to August). Temperatures tend to drop slightly in the winter. Peru has four seasons. The eastern lowlands present an Equatorial climate with hot and humid weather and rain distributed all year long. I do not recommend visiting the Amazon forest in the rainy season since it is often flooded.


Spanish is the official language although Quechua, Aymara, and other aboriginal languages have co-official status. English is taught in schools. But most people have only a very basic knowledge of English or none at all.


Official currency: Peruanischer Sol (PEN).


No entrance or exit fees. The Visa is for 180 days (free).

Ecuador – A country for nature and peanut butter lovers


Ecuador – A country for nature and peanut butter lovers

Ecuador is divided into four different regions: The Amazon (el oriente), the Andes mountains (la sierra), the Pacific coast, and the Galapagos Islands. Two out of our three months in Ecuador we spent volunteering in three different places. I loved my time in Ecuador. The stunning mountains, the people I met, the things I learnt while volunteering, the fertile soil, and the possibility to buy peanut butter in many little local stores.

Volunteering in agriculture in Pimampiro

We worked at Santiago’s farm for almost two weeks. He was a kind host with lots of interesting ideas for the future. We worked from Monday to Friday from 8am to 12:30pm. I performed work such as picking weeds, picking fruits and vegetables, painting walls, and helping his mum in the kitchen. It was nice to work in the morning and have the evening off to relax. I enjoyed the time Santiago spent with us outside of work. He took us on a hike, to a zip line, and to the local river. Santiago had issues with people not showing up so he accepted everyone and within a couple of days, there were 16 volunteers and organization fell apart. The food quality went down and we rarely had proteins, fats, or vitamins in the meals. We slept in a cabin with mud walls that was built by previous volunteers. Unfortunately there were holes in the mud wall and the roof. So we got wet at night from the rain. I believe this project has great potential. I loved the other volunteers I met. It is a projects that attracts lovely people.


Quito surprised me with its beautiful old buildings. Especially the old town, the church San Francisco (full of gold), and La Ronda. A cobblestone street with lots of bars and restaurants that gets crowded at night and weekends. All of it we visited on a free walking tour. Pictures below are from the Govinda’s restaurant.


Latacunga is not really a nice city and most people stay there only one night. We stayed with such a great Ecuadorian couple that we went back a month later for a few days. Like us, Andrea and Diego want to build their own tiny house in the future, grow their own food, like Jazz, love to cook, eat bananas with peanut butter, and live as sustainable as possible. They made us realize that a Ninja blender/food processor would be very useful. Unfortunately hard to clean. We made our own peanut butter. The curry peanut butter was my favourite. It has been a while since we connected so well with somebody.

Hiking the Quilotoa Loop


The Quilotoa Loop is a self-guided hike for several days through the Andes Mountains, rivers, valleys, and canyons, a volcano with a beautiful crater lake located in Quilotoa, spectacular views, Quechua communities, alpacas, and cosy hostels.


In the morning we took a bus from Latacunga to Quilotoa (2.50 USD each, 2.5h). In Quilotoa we stayed in the Alpaca Hostel. Normally the hostels on the loop include dinner and breakfast. But this hostel let us use the kitchen and paying less (8 USD each for a private double). The next morning we got up very early to see the sunset on our way down to the Crater Lake. It took us around 40 minutes. On the bottom we laid down on a jetty and enjoyed the silence, peace, and the warmth of the first rays of the sun. We were the only people there. The path up was more challenging and took us 50 minutes. Before you leave a hostel make sure to get a map. We trusted Something we would bitterly regret later. On our way to Chugchilán we ended up at a river. I knew we had to cross. It was starting to get dark and on the other side of the river we saw a sign, “Chugchilán 1.74 km”. There was not a bridge (anymore) and on the other side was a steep hill with sand. My heart started to beat very strong, I felt foggy-brained, and very weak. I was close to tears. We somehow managed to cross the river. I climbed on a rock that was in the river and jumped from there on the other side. After, my boyfriend threw our backpacks to me. Luckily there were some roots I could hold myself when I climbed up the sand hill. Some of the roots broke. My mouth has never been that dry. It took us around 45 minutes to climb up. Later we found out that this route is considered as very dangerous and not the official way anymore. So instead of 5h it took is 8h from Quilotoa to Chugchilán. In Chugchilán we stayed at the Cloud Forest Hostel (15 USD each for a private double) which is run by a lovely and very helpful family. When we arrived I saw a huge Saint Bernard dog. He looked like Balu (the dog I had seen in photos from the hostel in Isinlivi where we were going to volunteer). It turned out that he was. So on our 4.5h hike from Chugchilán to Isinlivi he followed us, thanks to a bag full of bread the hostel gave us.

Useful information to hike the Quilotoa Loop:

  • The crater rim climbs to 3’915 meters above sea level at its highest point. So if possible stay 2-3 days in Quito or Latacunga before the hike to adjust to the altitude.
  • Leave your luggage you don’t need at a hostel in Latacunga. Most hostels offer this service.
  • If you want to stay at Llullu Llama in Insinlivi it is necessary to pre-book by email as this is it only has limited space available. For the other hostels you will be fine simply turning up each day.
  • It is possible to camp right next to the Crater Lake in Quilotoa and other places on the way. If so make sure to have a very warm sleeping bag.
  • Start hiking early in the morning. It often gets cloudy in the early afternoon.
  • Take enough money. There are no ATMs.
  • Bring snacks and water with you before leaving Latacunga. Food is more expensive in the mountains.
  • Bring all your warm clothes with you as the weather changes rapidly and can get very cold. Especially in Quilotoa.
  • Consider it as part of the adventure to get lost. It is normal. In case of doubt, ask a local.
  • The area is considered as very safe. Dogs are the main hazard.
  • WIFI is hard to come by. Although a couple of hostels in Chugchilán do have access.

Our route: Latacunga > Quilotoa > Chugchilán > Isinlivi > Latacunga

Other options:

  • If you want to have the Crater Lake in Quilotoa at the end take a morning bus to Sigchos (2.5h) and start trekking from there to Isinlivi (3-4 hours).
  • If you want to see the Crater Lake, but you have only one day, catch a bus from Latacunga to Quilotoa. It takes around 4-5h to walk around the Crater Lake. It can be exhausting since the path is along the hilly crater rim.
  • It is also possible to take a bus to Chugchilán, spend the night and then do the 5-7 hour hike from there to the Crater Lake.

Volunteering in Isinlivi

Isinlivi is a tiny indigenous village on the Quilotoa Loop deep in the Andes Mountains at 2,800m. We volunteered there for a month in the beautiful eco-friendly mountain lodge Llullu Llama. Our main task was to make sure the guests are happy, well-informed about the area and feel at home. This included check-in/check-out of guest, serving dinner/snacks, breakfast, serving drinks from the bar, helping with administration on excel, and playing appropriate music.

For our work we got free accommodation and food. Even though we worked every day we felt very relaxed after. The cozy living room, amazing view, the possibility to use the spa, and the comfortable bed definitely played a role. We experimented in the kitchen a lot. A wonderful break from travelling.


A small magical town high in the Andes. Known for the healing powers of its hot springs and adventurous activities like bungee jumping, rafting, and zip lines.

We decided for the famous Ruta de Las Cascadas (Route of the Waterfalls). A 21 km long mostly downhill bike ride. We rented a bicycle in Baños (5 USD each, lock included). Along the way we stopped at the Manto de La Novia waterfall where we took a cable car ride to see the waterfall up close (1 USD). A fun and a bit of a thrill ride.

Most I liked the impressive Pailón del Diablo waterfall. Entrance is 1.50 USD. After a short hike and some crawling on all fours we could even stand behind the waterfall. Make sure you have either a rain jacket or umbrella with you if you do not want to get wet. The bus ride back was 2 USD each (bicycle included).


Like many other big cities in South America, Guayaquil has some dangerous places and is not so beautiful. But thanks to a family we stayed with we had a relaxed time. They made us feel at home, drove us around, and the parents joined us to Isla Santay. On the island are an eco-village and some crocodiles. Nevertheless the Parque de las Iguanas was more interesting. The iguanas are very trusting and therefore great to watch. I enjoyed walking along the Malecón. A nice boardwalk along the river. I liked Las Peñas. A lovely neighbourhood with many art galleries. And the Museum of Anthropology and Contemporary Art is worth to check out (free).


One day we met with a friend of mine from Switzerland, Stephanie. She is working for two years in Guayaquil with cocoa beans. One of the aims is to standardise the fermentation process. Thanks to her we could visit a cocoa farm, the middleman, and the company who exports the cocoa beans. The middleman is mainly a place where the farmers bring their cocoa beans. Those beans ferment there for a week and after get sold to the company. Cutting out the middleman would give the farmer a better price and the consumer a lower one. But often the farmers need the money right now and do not have time another week. It made me think about my mom who buys some of her food directly from a farm instead of from a grocery store. I am much more aware now how important it is to support a farmer directly.


Montañita is a surfer’s paradise with laid back beach parties all night long. There are only a few hostels that are immune against the music. Whereas in the mountains the rainy season just finished on the coast it just started (June). Anyway this did not keep us away from going to Puerto Lopez for whale watching (25 USD each). A good time is between June and September. We even saw the blue-footed boobies. A very rare bird species. Unfortunately the sea was very wild that day and I got pretty seasick.


A beautiful city to walk around with colonial buildings and along the river Tomebamba, art galleries (e.g. Art Gallery Miguel Illescas), a free symphony each Friday evening, a huge local market at Feria Libre, and the breathtaking Cajas National Park (especially the Laguna Toreadora) just 30 minutes away by bus. The bus stop is on the left side of the Feria Libre outside the bus station.

Cuenca attracts many expats to retire. We stayed with Stan and his wife Sharyl that we met at the hostel we volunteered. Stan is a wonderful person. He is 83 years old and still goes hiking twice a week. Sharyl is very skilled in creating a very comfortable home. Both of them seemed very interested in our plant-based diet. So we made them a coconut peanut butter curry, guacamole, avocado hummus, bread, Corviche, and Salprieta. The last two are both Ecuadorian dishes. Stan even made us a delicious plant-based banana cake without added sugar. One of the best I ever ate! And he taught me how to make coconut oil. Since he was raving about our cooking in front of his friends we ended up at their places and cooked for all of them as well. I am so grateful that we met, for our long conversations, and his eagerness to learn new things. It was such a great stay. During our stay Stan joined Couchsurfing. In an email he wrote me that now their meals are full of interesting conversation and lots of laughter. Sharyl is very happy even with all the young people coming and going. In the past she has been hesitant to entertain anyone, perhaps due to her depression. She is a changed person, lost weight and seems already to be enjoying better health.



Vilcabamba lies in the Sacred Valley of Longevity. One of those places in the world where people supposedly live to extreme old age. That myth has been debunked. Though through the perfect climate, air, water and growing conditions apparently people are healthier into old age. Vilcabamba attracts a large expat population, including highly spiritual people that speak with plants, trees, water, air, and animals. We volunteered in Tumianuma for three weeks on a biodynamic farm.

Volunteering in Tumianuma on a biodynamic farm

The farm of Walter and Susan lies in a sacred valley 30 minutes walking distance from the closest town, Tumianuma. We helped weeding, ploughing, planting, picking coffee, collecting wood, feeding chickens/cat/fish/dogs, collecting eggs, preparing meals, water the vegetables and flowers, and dig an irrigation system. It was nice to see the seeds we planted starting to grow out of the ground.

We worked from Monday to Friday from 8:30 am till 11:30 am and on the weekends we watched over the farm while Walter and Susan went back to Vilcabamba. Since we were in charge of the food we could make a list of food we would like. In the afternoons and evenings we read a lot, went for walks, took a bath in the river, or observed the thousands of fireflies and the Milky Way in a clear night´s sky. It was a great experience. Walter cares about the people who helps him on the farm and he took time to teach us various methods of farming such as biodynamics, permaculture, traditional Ecuadorian techniques, and vertical gardening systems. He also gave me an old phone since my one broke which I really appreciate. Unfortunately most apps do not work anymore even though the phone is only a few years old. One more reason why I would like to buy a Fairphone when I go back home. My dad just bought one. He told me the camera is not the best but the rest works proper.


Loja is just another big city. One day was enough to visit the Parque Recreacional Jipiro, the Puerta de la Ciudad, and the Plaza Parque Central. So we left one day earlier than planned to go Peru.


A typical meal includes a soup and a plate of rice with meat. It is possible to get a meal in a local restaurant (almuerzo: soup, a filling main course, and a fresh fruit juice) for around 3 USD. If you do not eat meat they are almost everywhere happy to replace the meat with an egg or sometimes beans. I was very happy when I found a Govinda’s restaurant in Quito and Cuenca (3 USD). Unfortunately the one in Cuenca was not that convincing. But there was another restaurant in Cuenca (Good Affinity, vegan, 3 USD) I really liked.


One of my favourite Ecuadorian street food is Cevichochos (1 USD): Chochos, corn, fried plantains, and tomato sauce. In Baños at the Pailón del Diablo waterfall we had a delicious empanada filled with avocado, tomatoes, broccoli, carrots, and potatoes (1 USD each).

In the Andes, the food consists of rice, pork and root vegetables. On the coast it is common to get seafood with coconut milk and rice. In the province of Manabí are many dishes that include peanuts. E.g. Sal prieta: A condiment for dishes based on fish, plantain or rice. It contains toasted corn, toasted peanuts, coriander, dried oregano, salt and black pepper. Or Corviche (green plantain, peanut butter, and fish). We learnt how to make them and just left out the fish.


Other typical Ecuadorian food:

  • Ají is a spicy sauce that contains tomatoes, cilantro, ají pepper, onions, and water.
  • Patacones are the fried green plantains

We bought almost all our food in little stores down the road or at big food markets. Some examples to have an idea: 1 banana (0.05 USD), 1 pound lentils (0.80 USD), 1 avocado (0.50 USD), 1 pound quinoa (0.90 USD), 6 tomatoes (1 USD), 1 carrot (0.10 USD), 1 pound peanuts (1.90 USD), 1 pound peanut butter (2 USD), 3 mangos (1 USD), 1 pound chickpeas (1.50 USD).


A common theme amongst coffee producing regions in Latin America is that the good stuff is for export. So, Ecuadorians are more likely to serve you weak, instant coffee.

The tap water at most places is not recommended to drink. Although Ecuadorians may do so. Their stomachs are used to it. It is best to boil the tap water. On the beach the water contains chlorine.


  • Couchsurfing is popular in Ecuador.
  • hostels are available for 6 USD per night in a dorm. The only hostels we stayed in was on the Quilotoa loop which are between 15 and 19 each, including dinner and breakfast.
  • volunteering is a nice option to spend a few weeks at one place.
  • Camping is possible at many places (e.g. Quilotoa loop, Cajas National Park)


  • Ecuador has a very good and comfortable bus system. Long-distance buses typically cost about 1-2 USD per hour. On the coast it is 2.50 USD per hour. Local buses inside a city are usually from 0.25 to 0.35 USD. Buses usually stop whenever you like.
  • If you are travelling by car all 50 km is a toll for 1 USD.
  • We hitchhiked often. It was much easier than in Colombia. Sometimes we waited less than two minutes. Sometimes more than an hour. That is usually the time we took a bus. Only a few people asked for money. Either we waited for another car or we agreed on a price. Often hitchhiking is faster than travelling by bus. Mainly because buses stop very often.img_0478

Things to know

  • Most public toilets are free but do not have toilet paper.
  • Many parks do have WIFI.
  • Child labour is unfortunately very common.
  • Most dogs are only outside, very territorial, and are not used to endearment. Be careful!
  • Most roads are in a very good condition. Much better than Colombia and Peru.
  • Ecuador is run by a democratic government. The people have had much control over the presidents in the past, voting them in and then kicking them out.


Like anywhere else it is important to be careful and use plain common sense. Ask which the neighbourhoods you should avoid are. Petty theft and slashing is very common. Especially in bigger cities (e.g. Quito) and busses. At night time the streets of big cities can be dangerous. It gets dark around 6:30 pm, so from then onwards it is recommended to take a taxi if going out. Smaller cities are safer. I loved to be able to hike in the mountains without being afraid of getting attacked.


Medical care is free for tourists in public hospitals. Also for travellers with no travel insurance. Malaria is present everywhere except the Galapagos and Quito. The Yellow fever vaccination is required if you have previously been in a country where it is present.



Many people picture Ecuador as being a really warm tropical country. Well it is not. Only on the coast and in the jungle it is warm but in the heights of the Andes it can get very cold. Since Ecuador is at the equator there are no seasons like in Europe. The temperature varies only a few degrees at each place over the year. But Ecuador has a very diverse range of climates. There is a distinction between a rainy (summer: October to May) and a dry (winter: June to September) season.

  • The best time to visit Ecuador for beaches is surprisingly the rainy season. The rain only falls in short tropical bursts in the afternoon. The dry season can be too cool as well as cloudy and often overcast.
  • It rains year round in the Amazon, but December to May is particularly soggy, with roads more likely to be blocked.


Spanish is the official language although Quechua is widely spoken across the country. Some other indigenous languages remain in use. English is taught in schools. But most people have only a very basic knowledge of English or none at all.


Official currency since 2000: US dollar (USD). Ecuadorian coins have the same value as their US equivalent.


Citizens of the United States, Canada and most European countries do not require a visa unless they want to stay for more than 90 days in one calendar year (90 days adding every entry in one year). It is possible to extend your stay in Ecuador between 90 and 180 days. This Visa is between 250 and 450 USD. We both did not have to show a return or onward ticket on the border.



Colombia is a country with a brutal and bloody past. Exploitation of indigenous people, Cartagena as Spanish America’s biggest slave port, a civil war, and Pablo Escobar. One of the most powerful and brutal drug dealers in the world. In 1993 he was murdered. Unfortunately, the Farc keep the cocaine business alive. Recently, in June 2016, they signed a peace contract. I hope this will stop the war. Tourists are visiting Colombia since a few years. Many even stay there. Fall in love. I can definitely understand why. Colombians are very helpful, warmhearted, generous, and happy people. Proud to show off what was hidden for so long. During my 7 weeks in Colombia I had only one bad experience (more about it later). I was struggling for a while if I actually wanted to write about it since I do not want to scare people away from Colombia. It was simply bad luck and from a statistical point of view, very rare. This experience in turn made me realise how healing the nature and friends can be. The places I volunteered (guadua house construction) and visited have given me inspiration and courage that it is possible to live in harmony with nature. I also learnt that many Colombians reuse plastic to build houses. Better than to burn it. Best of course would be to not even buy plastic.


The capital has among other things many murals, a botanic garden, the famous museo de oro, and a free graffiti tour.

Santa Marta

From Bogotá my boyfriend and I hitchhiked to Santa Marta (over 1’000 km). It took us two days. The gold museum in Santa Marta is free and I highly recommend. It is a very nice city to walk around. From Santa Marta we visited the Tayrona National Park. We could leave our backpacks at our Couchsurfing host’s place. It was very nice and appreciated.

Tayrona National Park

We took a bus from Santa Marta (bus stop “public market Santa Marta”) to Tayrona (7’000 pesos). Entry was 44’500 pesos. The nicest place to sleep is in Cabo San Juan del Guia. We shared a double tent (60’000 pesos) with a girl from Germany. Hammocks (10’000 pesos) are highly coveted and therefore all rented short after 11 am. It is also possible to sleep in your own tent. Tap water is not drinkable, and like food, quite expensive in the park. I recommend to bring some toilet paper too.

The next morning we hiked to Pueblito. A small peaceful indigenous village on the top of a mountain. The atmosphere was magic. At some points we climbed over boulders which made me face my fear but no harness was needed. The way down was a beautiful path and led us to one of the exits of the park.


Cartagena has an incredibly beautiful, old, and romantic architecture. Some houses are very colourful. Especially in the area where most hostels are. Our hostel: “FriendsToBe” was very clean, had a kitchen to use, and a small pool. The chocolate museum was very interesting and we tried many different chocolate products (e.g. tea, coffee, nuts, body oils). Not the chocolate condoms though.


Since we thought hitchhiking all the way from Cartagena to Medellín is a bit too long we stopped in Monteria for three nights. I was surprised about how modern the building were. I felt like I was in Europe. Our host told us the city has a lot of money because of cattle breeding.


Medellín is called the “City of Eternal Spring” and considered as one of the most innovative cities in the world. The botanic garden is free, beautiful, and great for a picnic. There is a free walking tour by a company named Real City Tour. The tour is 3.5 – 4 hours and booking is required before meeting for the tour. Booking opens 1.5 days in advance of each tour. Number one on TripAdvisor is the Metrocable. It starts at the Acevedo station. We hopped in one of the cable-car gondolas heading up the mountain (no extra charge if you haven’t left the system yet). It took us over some of the poorest and previously most dangerous neighborhoods in Medellin. There are three stops. At the last stop, Santo Domingo, we had to change to another gondola for 4.600 COP that took us over the forest to Park Arvi. Beautiful for hiking and escaping the city life.

I loved our time in Medellín especially thanks to our Couchsurfing host, John. He made us feel very welcomed and at home with his contagious smile and warm heart. We spent time together playing games, watching documentaries, sharing meals, sharing culture, and an English/Spanish language exchange.


We volunteered here for one week doing guadua construction. On our day off, we kayaked to a small island near our project. It was sunny during the day but gets cold at night. More about our volunteer experiences in a future blog entry.


Our host Federico picked us from the bus terminal and took us to his finca hotel. A beautiful and relaxing place where we hiked and learnt about coffee that characterise the area of Pereira. His father, a former university teacher, went out of his way to make us feel at home and treated us as if we were family.
His dad was also very interested in our plant-based diet and wanted to know as many recipes as possible. He highly appreciated the recipes. He later wrote me that he realised the benefits of a plant-based diet and will incorporate the recipes into his diet.


A little town surrounded by a beautiful green countryside. We went on a weekend so it was full of visitors. But I still very much enjoyed Salento. I highly recommend to visit the Kasaguadua Natural Reserve or even stay there for a few nights (30 mins walking outside of Salento, 25’000 pesos per night). Carlos und Nicolas are a great example of how it is possible to live and coexist with the nature. The guests are only allowed to use a specific home-made soap. Shampoo would destroy the bacteria in the water which they are using to produce the cooking gas. The houses are made out of guadua (indigenous kind of bamboo) and recycled materials. Both are extremly knowledgeble and enthusiastic. I learnt a lot about the ecosystem. For example, that Colombia has compared to Europe still a seed bank that is controlled by a fungus network. Some seeds are saved in the ground for years and pop out when needed. The grass that is all over Colombia actually came from Europe with the immigration of cows. Under the grass is no seed bank anymore. Since Colombia is at the equator there are no seasons and consequently the leaves don’t fall each year. If they fall it is because they are old (15-50 years). The tour starts at 9am, reservation is required, payment is by donation, and it takes 3h.

In Salento are many vegan restaurants and several coffee farms in the surrounding area to see the process from field to cup. Most tourists go for a hike amongst the giant wax palm trees of Valle de Cocora (5h). It is recommended to go in the morning since it is often cloudy in the afternoon.

Other places

Due to hitchhiking we stopped in other cities for a few days.

  • Ibagué: The city has a small but very nice Museo Arte (3’500 pesos).
  • Cali: The mother of Salsa.
  • Popayan: The white colonial town.
  • Pasto


Colombians love to bargain. It is possible to get a meal in a local restaurant for around 6’000 pesos. On Tripadvisor I found a delicious vegetarian and vegan restaurant called Govinda. Located in most bigger cities. The food is very healhy, homemade and has an Indian touch. The portions are big (soup, juice, main dish and desert) and the staff is very nice (9’000 pesos).

Colombian street food is a mix of fried food, creamy drinks, and all types of corn manifestations: Arepas (corn flat bread; e.g. arepas de chocolo are made with sweet corn), Almojabanas (a soft cheese bread), Avena (an oatmeal-based drink), Buñuelos (cheese balls), Churros, Corn on the cob, Empanadas (fried or baked, stuffed pastries with meat or vegetables; popular all around Latin America).

Colombia has an amazing variety of fruits. Some are found only in particular regions of the country. For the first time I tried: Guanábana, Guaba, Lulo, Mangostino, Guayaba, Zapote, Tomate de árbol, and Mamey.

There are many different grocery stores in Colombia: E.g. D1 (cheap chain. No fresh food), Ara, Exito, Olimpica. Some examples to have an idea: lentils 855g (2’400 pesos), chickpeas (5’220 per kg), quinoa 400g (7’400 pesos), curry powder (1’700 pesos), coconut cream (4’950 pesos), corn flour (1’850 pesos), cinnamon (900 pesos), oats 250g (940 pesos), tofu (6’620 pesos).

Vegetables, fruits, and peanuts we tried to buy in little stores. 1 banana (200 pesos), 1 avocado hass (700 pesos), 1 big avocado (2’300 pesos), peanuts 500g (6’000 pesos).

The tap water at most places is safe to drink. It is best to ask somebody or just to cook it.

Coffee is the number one drink. Tinto (a small cup of black coffee, 300 pesos) is available on pretty much every street corner (just look for the people with thermos bottles). A common theme amongst coffee producing regions in Latin America is that the good stuff is for export. So, Colombians are more likely to serve you instant coffee.


  • Couchsurfing is very popular in Colombia.
  • hostels are available for 15’000 pesos per night in a dorm. In Cartagena (more touristic) we paid 30’000 pesos.
  • hotels along the interstate highway are worth to consider if hitchhiking. We paid 40’000 pesos for a double bed.


Long-distance bus travel is not that cheap in Colombia. I think because there are many tolls. The quality of the bus is generally quite good for Latin America. Some of the prices are negotiable (particularly long-distance and when leaving in the next hour). In most bus stations there are many different bus companies with different prices. Here is a list of some buses we took to have a rough idea:

  • bus from Bogota to Medellin: 55’000 pesos.
  • bus from Honda to Ibagué: 17’000 pesos
  • bus from Ibagué to Girardot: 7’000 pesos
  • bus from Girardot to Anapoima: 6’000 pesos
  • bus from Anapoima to Ibagué: 15’000 pesos
  • bus from Ibagué to Pereira: 22’000 pesos (5h)
  • bus from Pereira to Salento: 7’000 pesos

Buses inside a city are cheap (1’700-3’000 pesos for 30 mins). Bogota has a bus system called TransMilenio. For 2’000 pesos you can change buses as much as you want. But as soon as you leave the system you need to pay again to reenter. With one card (3’000 pesos) you can pay for several people. Medellin is the only city in Colombia that has a metro system. One way is 2’100 pesos (card: 400 pesos).

We hitchhiked often. Most of it in trucks made for two people since there is a lack of cars driving long distances. We met the kindest and most generous people while hitchhiking. Once while waiting a guy crossed the street and gave us two fresh, cold coconuts. Another time a woman invited us to her home where we tried some fruits and homemade wine. The list goes on. Most of them speak only Spanish. So a great possibility for us to improve our Spanish. Many asked if our parents are not worried and when we talked to them the last time. Telling us that they call their parents everyday. Now I will explain our one bad experience in Colombia. Please do not make the same mistake like us and hitchike on an open truck where three young guys are already sitting. We were attacked/threatened with two machetes and a knife. They wanted our backpacks. First I thought they would cut off my boyfriend’s arm. It was so surreal. The driver could not see us and the only car behind us did not recognize the situation. I screamed and tried to persuade the guys. They luckily hurt us only superficially but the situation became more and more dangerous. Fortunately, the truck slowed down in the next town. We jumped down from the tractor trailer with our backpacks. The people there recognized the situation immediately and alarmed the police. We were taken to the hospital and then to the police station. I hurt myself badly when I jumped off of the truck. I could hardly walk for around a week. First I wanted to go back home. But then I thought it would be wrong to be deterred by three guys. If I would have gone home I might have been scared for the rest of my life and never came back to South America. I am still a bit scared. Especially when I see a young guy walking around with a knife. But I am recovering.

I don’t want to promote airplanes since they are bad for the environment but I also don’t want to hide this information from you. A ticket can be as cheap as 20 USD. So many people go by airplane. Which as a consequence makes it harder to hitchhike since there are less cars on the road.


Like anywhere else it is important to be careful and use plain common sense. Ask which are the neighbourhoods you should avoid. Petty theft is very common. E.g. Don’t leave your backpack in the rack above your head (always keep it on your person) when travelling in a bus.

Unfortunately, violent crimes are still happening and definitely do not happen only to tourists. But you need to be very unlucky. Colombians are so amazing that it would be a pity not to go there for that reason.

There are stories of people flagging a taxi on the street only to be driven around to various ATMs, and being made to withdraw large sums of money. To avoid this get somebody you trust to call a taxi for you if you really need one.


Malaria is present in all areas except Medellin and Cartagena. The Yellow fever vaccination is recommended but no required.


Since Colombia is close to the equator there are no seasons like in Europe. The temperature varies only a few degrees at each place over the year. But Colombia has a very diverse range of climates. There is a distinction between a wet (summer: June to August and December to February) and a dry (winter: March to May and September to October) season. These tropical rains are not permanent.

  • 12-17 degrees: Bogotá (be prepared for rain anytime)
  • 17-24 degrees: Medellín, Salento, Guatapé
  • >24 degrees: Cali, Cartagena, Santa Marta, Tayrona National Park

Best time to visit: All-year round destination offering something for everyone.


Official currency: Colombian Peso (COP).


No entrance or exit fees. The Visa is for 90 days (free).

Cuba on a budget


Cuba is one of the most interesting countries I have ever been. It is not only about cigars, beautiful antique cars that are leaving huge rey gas clouds behind, and Havana rum.

On our first day in Cuba my friend from the US and I walk along the coast of old Havana. A Cuban stops us with a big smile and asks for our names and nationalities. After he starts singing “Debora is good, United States is good. Debora is good…”. We are about to leave. Then he asks for money. 
Asking for money is one thing. But what was worse for me was his displeased facial expression of contempt after we said no. Like if we owe him money. I felt worthless.

This pattern repeated many times during our two weeks in Cuba. We started to be especially sceptical when a guy told us he is some kind of a teacher and wants to tell us something about the history. Even when we asked for the way we got asked for money. We met only a few people who did not ask for money in the end. And those are probably the poorest. True hospitability is an alien concept for most in Cuba and real friendship was hard to find.

I understand Cuba is a poor country. But I have been to many poor countries and never experienced that the people were like this. This made me want to learn even more about their situation. The revolution (1959) is still very present. All the advertisement is about the revolution and its heroes Ernesto Guevara (Che), Camilo Cienfuegos, and Fidel and Raúl Castro. Not so long ago (around 1993) Cuba went through a huge economic crisis after their most important trade partner (Soviet Union) ended. So I think now Cuba is in the process to build a new identity. Just because I had this experience it doesn’t mean it will be the same for you. So please visit this country if you thought about going.

The average monthly salary is around 25 USD. A doctor does not get paid much higher than other workers. Today the principal income is tourism. A night for a tourist in a casa particular is between 10 and 35 USD. The owners need to hand off 10% to the government. No surprise both doctors and teachers prefer to work in tourism. A big gab is developing between those who work in tourism and those who don’t. In a country that used to make sure that everybody got the same.

At the moment Cuba does have a lot of tourists. Many people want to experience Cuba before the US has too much influence. Already now many Cubans are wearing clothes from the US. Since a few months it is possible to fly from the US directly to Cuba. Since there is a constant need for material goods Cubans are very happy if you bring them something useful (colours, an instrument, clothes, a game, a toilet seat, spices).

Internet is only unlimited for students. Everybody else has to pay 1.5 CUC per hour (huge line to get the password) and find a spot with wifi (mostly in parks). There exists no free wifi. Yet.


  • Download the app (offline). Google maps does not work in Cuba.
  • Scams are common. Always count your change whenever you purchase something. It happened to us at least twice.


There is a Couchsurfing meeting every Tuesday from 21:00 to 23:30 where you can meet locals and other travellers.


Great place for hiking. A very touristic city. In other places where we went it was easy to find restaurants and food stalls where locals go. In Vinales it was not.


We liked Cienfuegos the most. A less touristic city on the water.

El Nicho Parque

We took a truck early in the morning from Cumanayagua to El Nicho (5:10 am). The only bus back is at 6 pm. Entrance is 10 CUC. We spent a beautiful day in the nature. On the other side of the street is another waterfall where it is possible to swim.


It is touristic but the distinction between tourists and locals is not that strict. So there are many options to buy cheap local food. One day we rented bicycles and explored the beaches (4 USD each). It was also nice to walk up the hill and watch the sunset (mirador).


Cuba has a shortage of vegetables, fruits, nuts, and other healthy food (It is impossible to buy quinoa and very hard to find oats). The reasons are different depending who I asked: There are a lack of farmers, they do not make a lot of money, and if there is a bad year (e.g. hurricanes, torrid periods) the government does not support them. A lack of seeds, agricultural engines, fertiliser, and pesticides. The last two make Cuba coincidental to a global leader in organic agriculture.

The basis of most dishes are rice and beans. Our host in the vegan hostel told us that even if the food does not contain meat (e.g. beans) Cubans flavour them with bones or pork fat. We ate out once. Rice and salad was the only plant-based option we found. My rice contained meat. Even though I told the waiter that I do not eat meat. Maybe I should have told him that I am allergic to meat.

Since most casa particulars offer food for money (Breakfast 3-5 CUC. Dinner 3-8 CUC) they do not like if somebody uses their kitchen. Some people let us cook beans and a few places let us use the kitchen. So we precooked a lot and sprouted lentils.

Grocery stores do not have a lot of food options plus do not sell any vegetables and fruits. We bought beans (1.15-1.65 CUC) and water (5 liter are 1.90-2 CUC). At one point we started to boil tap water and drank that.

If you have CUP (just ask locals to exchange) it is possible to buy fruits and vegetables on stalls: E.g. 15 small bananas (15 CUP), 4 sweet potatoes (15-25 CUP), 2 tomatoes (3-20 CUP), 1 pineapple (20 CUP), 1 papaya (3 CUP), 1 onion (2 CUP), 1 pepper (1 CUP).

Many locals eat at cafeterías (very cheap, in CUP). They often offer sandwiches (10-15 CUP), pizza (bread with tomato sauce), spaghetti, and coffee (1 CUP, strong and sweet). I am wondering where this Italian influence comes from. Cubans even use the Italian coffeepot.


  • Couchsurfing is illegal. Cubans use this website to promote their casa particular or hostel. That is how I found a vegan hostel in Havanna (10 CUC per person. Breakfast, dinner, and water included. Address: Máximo Gomez 913, top floor).
  • A casa particular is the most common place to stay. It is a private room in a house of a Cuban family. Recognizable by a blue anchor. In bigger cities are many. Prices vary between 10 and 35 CUC per room for one night. Pretty soon we realised that we can make our own price. So 15 CUC was the most we payed. 5 CUC each was the least (Cumanayagua, unofficial). Unofficial means that our host did not ask for our passport and visa to report us to the immigration.
  • Hostels are rare. The cheapest I found is 5 CUC per person in Havana (Hamel Hostel: 308 hospital street).
  • Independent room. Like an apartment with a kitchen to use. A bit more expensive than a casa particular but less than a hotel.
  • We met some people who did free camping
  • We met a girl who had a hammock and just asked Cubans if she can hang her hammock at their place


  • Hitchhiking is possible but Cubans are used to asking for money. Sometimes there is a man in a yellow jumpsuit who stops cars.
  • Most tourists take a bus called VIAZUL (very expensive).
  • Mostly we used the local bus. Since most bus terminals refuse to sell tourists a ticket we just went to a bus station on the way. You lose time but also save a lot of money. It was a good way to practice our patience.

Transport we took:

  • Taxi from the Airport international to Havana city centre: 30 CUC per taxi. We shared a taxi with two other people. On the way back we took the bus P12 from the city center to the bus stop “Estación General Peraza” (0.50 CUP) and walked from there 40 mins. It is also possible to take a taxi for 1 CUC from there.
  • Havana to Vinales: Bus P12 to bus stop 100 y Boyeros (1 CUP). Go upstairs and walk to A4 (5-10 mins). Take a bus to Pinar del Rio (30-50 CUP). From there a bus to Vinales (2 CUP). Total duration: 5 h 30 mins.
  • Havana to Cienfuegos: Bus P8 to Vibora (1 CUP). Bus P3 to Barrio Obrero (5 CUP). Bus to Cienfuego centro (6 CUC. 3h). Total duration: 4h.
  • Cienfuegos to Cumanayagua: Truck (camión) to Cumanayagua from terminal de Omnibus (1 CUC, 1h).
  • Cumanayagua to Trinidad: Truck (camión) at 4:40 am to Topes de Collantes. Since it is a very touristic place the trucks didn’t even stop for us. In the end we hitchhiked and payed 5 CUC to Trinidad for both.
  • Trinidad to Cienfuegos: First place where we could not buy a ticket for a local bus. So we went to the end of the city (bus stop for locals) where a man in yellow stops cars. We got in a open dirty truck (90 mins, 50 CUP).
  • Cienfuegos to Havana: Bus to Aguada de Pasajeros (autopista A1, 5 CUP, 2h 30 mins). From there we stopped a bus towards Havana (40 CUP).


Cuba has two currencies: The Cuban Convertible peso (CUC, replaced 2004 the USD and is therefore equivalent to the USD, used for imported products and superior facilities, is not a tourist currency) and the Cuban Peso (CUP, pesos nacionales, for locals). We used the latter kind to buy vegetables and fruits on stalls and for the local transport.

At the airport it is possible to change EUR, Mexican Peso, CAD, CHF, GBP, and USD (10% fee) to CUC (not CUP). CUP we changed with locals. Not all cards (e.g. those from the US) work in Cuba.


Other than petty theft (e.g. shoes of my friend while we took a short nap in the grass), violent crimes are not common in Cuba. I have read that many Cubans tell you about an awesome party happening at a restaurant or bar. They will take you there and in the end will make you pay for them as well. Walking around at night is safe in most areas.

Health care

Medical treatment is free for Cubans. But they have to pay for medication from the pharmacy. Cuba is famous for having one of the best health care systems in the Americas. But the quality is questioned increasingly. Many medical facilities are decrepit and some medical utensils are outdated. Frequently important medications are missing and waiting time can be long since many Cuban doctors are sent abroad. Cuba (the government) demands a lot of money from the host country (between 2’500 and 4’000 USD per month). The doctors themselves receive often less than 10% of this money. No wonder some Cuban doctors disappear suddenly and never return back to Cuba.


Education is free and school attendance is compulsory. But after university the students have to work in social services for three years. Since the government exchanges teachers to neighbouring countries there is a shortage of teachers.


  • Coolest and driest season: Middle of November to April
  • Rainy season: May to October
  • Hurricane season: July to November


My tourist visa at the airport in Cancun, Mexico (flying with InterJet, Swiss passport) was 20 USD (only cash). My friend from the US bought a visa online for 65 USD. Best is to write the airline if it is possible to buy the tourist visa at the airport.

Mexico – Crystal clear water, caves, and sailing


Lagos de Colón

San Cristobal de las Casas

My host’s place in San Cristobal was unique. A place where many similar minded people can meet. Some are artists, some helped to build a future hostel close by, some smoked weed all day long, and some just seemed lost. Expenses for water and gas was shared. Best I connected with an Argentinian guy and his eight-year-old daughter. Loved to share meals (especially the lentils burger) with them. We met again a few weeks later on Isla Mujeres.

Most I liked the huge local food market. There I found all kind oIMG_8207_bearbf seeds, nuts, beans, fruits, and vegetables. A lot was much less than 20 pesos. Getting lost in the city with many nice churches, powerful murals, and cute coffees was nice as well. Unfortunately in the evenings it got really cold (three layers plus scarf). But during the day I could wear shorts (February). So I stayed only for a few days. During my stay in San Cristobal I got a message from a Swiss friend asking if I am in San Cristobal. Facebook sent him a message that we are nearby. He planned a trip with his bicycle from the USA to the most southern point in Chile. Due to a job offer he went back to Switzerland. Hope he can finish his trip one day.

Laguna Bacalar

Also known as the lake of the seven colours. The water is crystal clear, fresh, and therefore perfect for swimming. I was amazed. Since my host had a sailboat we went sailing, snorkeling at his favorite spot in Bacalar, and I met some interesting people thanks to him.

Laguna Milagros

When I arrived at my host’s place in Bacalar he told me that he rented his house (airbnb) for the weekend. So we went to his family’s house at the Laguna Milagros. A peaceful place. 30 mins by minibus (35 pesos). We went kayaking and I prepared a curry with fresh coconuts from his garden.


The city itself was nothing special but there was definitely a lot to do. I visited a few cenotes (over 100). One of my hosts showed me some hidden ones. Cenotes are deep sinkholes in limestone with a pool at the bottom. Great for snorkeling. The beach is a few km away but I was very lucky that I could use the bicycle of my host. The ruins at the beach were ok but I would not recommend (70 pesos). A guy I met through Couchsurfing lend me a surfboard so we could surf together. The waves are very small there.

Isla Mujeres

I arrived on the Island in the late afternoon. My host picked me up at the ferry port and drove us directly to a hidden beach where we watched the sunset. When we walked back an elderly couple that rented a house on the beach invited us spontaneously for dinner. They said they bought too much lobster, it is their last evening, and today is Valentine’s Day. I hesitated for a quick moment since I stopped eating meat. But my curiosity for this two Canadian people was much bigger. The man turned out to be a great storyteller and when we left a few hours later they told us this was their best evening on the island.

The next morning during breakfast something unbelievable happend. One of my best friends from the US just walked by. He surfed my couch in Switzerland a few years ago. Since then we met at least once a year somewhere in the world. He arrived with his sailboat the night before with some friends from the US (4 days). A few days later my friend let me sleep on his sailboat for almost a week. I was a bit seasick in the first few hours. But after eating some ginger I felt much better. We did some snorkeling and explored an island made out of plastic bottles with trees planted on top. Apparently it used to be nice but we found it in disrepair.

Isla Mujeres was my favourite place in Mexico. I am sure the people made the place. But the white sandy beach, great weather, and clear blue water was a nice extra. The hostel Pocna (130 pesos per night) is THE place to be. Free Yoga in the morning, volleyball and workout in the afternoon, live music and a magician in the evening, and dancing till 3am at the beach bar. Every night. After is only the Kokonuts bar opened. The people are very mixed: Families, long term travellers, sailers, and people who just come for the weekend.


  • Couchsurfing is very popular in Mexico.
  • camping is also very popular and cheap. A tent in a supermarket is around 300 pesos.
  • hostels are available for 100 pesos per night


A meal is around 70-85 pesos. In Tulum is a Chinese place where a plate is only 20-40 pesos.

Mexico has many vegetarian and vegan restaurants (most more expensive). On Isla Mujeres: Falafel bar, Poc chuc.

Street food – fresh, spicy, cheap (30-60 pesos), and delicious: corn tortillas, tacos, frijoles, avocado, nopal cactus, coriander, and lime. The tacos is San Cristobal are very colourful (purple, green, black).

The tap water is not recommended to drink. Unfortunately Coca Cola is cheaper than drinking water.


Either colectivo mini-vans or big buses (more expensive). Very comfortable. Buses travel at nearly every hour. Free wifi at most bus stations (not Bacalar).

Buses I took:

  • ADO bus from San Cristobal de las casas to Bacalar: 668 pesos (13h)
  • ADO bus from Bacalar to Tulum: 214 pesos (2.5 h)
  • Colectivo bus from Tulum to Playa del Carmen: 50 pesos (1 h)
  • Colectivo bus from Playa del Carmen to Cancun: 36 pesos (1 h)
  • boat from Cancun (Puerto Juarez) to Isla Mujeres return: 300 pesos (20 mins)
  • Colectivo bus from Puerto Juarez to Cancun center: 10 pesos
  • ADO bus from Cancun center to airport: 72 pesos


Official currency: Mexican peso (MXN).


Spanish is the official language. A number of indigenous languages are also spoken. Only a few people speak English.


Like anywhere else it is important to be careful and use plain common sense. It is safe to walk around during daytime. On Isla Mujeres it is even possible to walk around alone at night. There are some neighbourhoods you should avoid. I did not feel unsafe any moment.


Mexico is a large country and its weather can vary greatly from one destination to another. The weather and climate in Mexico are affected by a combination of the season, what part of Mexico you are in, and what altitude there is.

Mexico has two seasons. The dry season from November to April to and the rainy season from May to October (it often only rains in the late afternoons).

Hurricane season: June to November

Hottest Months: April and May in the South, and July to September on Pacific Coast, and extremely hot in the Yucatan May to September.

Coolest Months: generally December, January, February; the Yucatan can still experience hot weather.


Exit: 500 pesos (90 days)