Mexico is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever been. But Mexico has a huge problem with rubbish. Sometimes I walked around with some rubbish for hours till I asked a restaurant if I can use their basura.
Lagos de Colón
San Cristobal de las Casas
My host’s place in San Cristobal was unique. A place where many similar minded people can meet. Some are artists, some helped to build a future hostel close by, some smoked weed all day long, and some just seemed lost. Expenses for water and gas was shared. Best I connected with an Argentinian guy and his eight-year-old daughter. Loved to share meals (especially the lentils burger) with them. We met again a few weeks later on Isla Mujeres.
Most I liked the huge local food market. There I found all kind of seeds, nuts, beans, fruits, and vegetables. A lot was much less than 20 pesos. Getting lost in the city with many nice churches, powerful murals, and cute coffees was nice as well. Unfortunately in the evenings it got really cold (three layers plus scarf). But during the day I could wear shorts (February). So I stayed only for a few days. During my stay in San Cristobal I got a message from a Swiss friend asking if I am in San Cristobal. Facebook sent him a message that we are nearby. He planned a trip with his bicycle from the USA to the most southern point in Chile. Due to a job offer he went back to Switzerland. Hope he can finish his trip one day.
Also known as the lake of the seven colours. The water is crystal clear, fresh, and therefore perfect for swimming. I was amazed. Since my host had a sailboat we went sailing, snorkeling at his favorite spot in Bacalar, and I met some interesting people thanks to him.
When I arrived at my host’s place in Bacalar he told me that he rented his house (airbnb) for the weekend. So we went to his family’s house at the Laguna Milagros. A peaceful place. 30 mins by minibus (35 pesos). We went kayaking and I prepared a curry with fresh coconuts from his garden.
The city itself was nothing special but there was definitely a lot to do. I visited a few cenotes (over 100). One of my hosts showed me some hidden ones. Cenotes are deep sinkholes in limestone with a pool at the bottom. Great for snorkeling. The beach is a few km away but I was very lucky that I could use the bicycle of my host. The ruins at the beach were ok but I would not recommend (70 pesos). A guy I met through Couchsurfing lend me a surfboard so we could surf together. The waves are very small there.
I arrived on the Island in the late afternoon. My host picked me up at the ferry port and drove us directly to a hidden beach where we watched the sunset. When we walked back an elderly couple that rented a house on the beach invited us spontaneously for dinner. They said they bought too much lobster, it is their last evening, and today is Valentine’s Day. I hesitated for a quick moment since I stopped eating meat. But my curiosity for this two Canadian people was much bigger. The man turned out to be a great storyteller and when we left a few hours later they told us this was their best evening on the island.
The next morning during breakfast something unbelievable happend. One of my best friends from the US just walked by. He surfed my couch in Switzerland a few years ago. Since then we met at least once a year somewhere in the world. He arrived with his sailboat the night before with some friends from the US (4 days). A few days later my friend let me sleep on his sailboat for almost a week. I was a bit seasick in the first few hours. But after eating some ginger I felt much better. We did some snorkeling and explored an island made out of plastic bottles with trees planted on top. Apparently it used to be nice but we found it in disrepair.
Isla Mujeres was my favourite place in Mexico. I am sure the people made the place. But the white sandy beach, great weather, and clear blue water was a nice extra. The hostel Pocna (130 pesos per night) is THE place to be. Free Yoga in the morning, volleyball and workout in the afternoon, live music and a magician in the evening, and dancing till 3am at the beach bar. Every night. After is only the Kokonuts bar opened. The people are very mixed: Families, long term travellers, sailers, and people who just come for the weekend.
- Couchsurfing is very popular in Mexico.
- camping is also very popular and cheap. A tent in a supermarket is around 300 pesos.
- hostels are available for 100 pesos per night
A meal is around 70-85 pesos. In Tulum is a Chinese place where a plate is only 20-40 pesos.
Mexico has many vegetarian and vegan restaurants (most more expensive). On Isla Mujeres: Falafel bar, Poc chuc.
Street food – fresh, spicy, cheap (30-60 pesos), and delicious: corn tortillas, tacos, frijoles, avocado, nopal cactus, coriander, and lime. The tacos is San Cristobal are very colourful (purple, green, black).
The tap water is not recommended to drink. Unfortunately Coca Cola is cheaper than drinking water.
Either colectivo mini-vans or big buses (more expensive). Very comfortable. Buses travel at nearly every hour. Free wifi at most bus stations (not Bacalar).
Buses I took:
- ADO bus from San Cristobal de las casas to Bacalar: 668 pesos (13h)
- ADO bus from Bacalar to Tulum: 214 pesos (2.5 h)
- Colectivo bus from Tulum to Playa del Carmen: 50 pesos (1 h)
- Colectivo bus from Playa del Carmen to Cancun: 36 pesos (1 h)
- boat from Cancun (Puerto Juarez) to Isla Mujeres return: 300 pesos (20 mins)
- Colectivo bus from Puerto Juarez to Cancun center: 10 pesos
- ADO bus from Cancun center to airport: 72 pesos
Official currency: Mexican peso (MXN).
Spanish is the official language. A number of indigenous languages are also spoken. Only a few people speak English.
Like anywhere else it is important to be careful and use plain common sense. It is safe to walk around during daytime. On Isla Mujeres it is even possible to walk around alone at night. There are some neighbourhoods you should avoid. I did not feel unsafe any moment.
Mexico is a large country and its weather can vary greatly from one destination to another. The weather and climate in Mexico are affected by a combination of the season, what part of Mexico you are in, and what altitude there is.
Mexico has two seasons. The dry season from November to April to and the rainy season from May to October (it often only rains in the late afternoons).
Hurricane season: June to November
Hottest Months: April and May in the South, and July to September on Pacific Coast, and extremely hot in the Yucatan May to September.
Coolest Months: generally December, January, February; the Yucatan can still experience hot weather.
Exit: 500 pesos (90 days)